FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Seems like a piece of a plastic welding rod would be suitable here. Harbor Freighr used to sell this pack but couldn’t find it on their website any mor. Is it possible for that store to go downhill?

I am thinking about this nubbin issue, (piston) while I do not have a light yet after only reviewing images and M4D M4X ’s video, would it be easier or more practical to bond a suitable object to the dome of the switch?

More thinking and experimentation would be required. the dome probably deflects or deforms which would cause a distortion and break the bond. I don’t know I don’t one have to futz with.

The switch to me appears to be metallic in fact it looks a dome of a membrane switch.

To replace the nubbin itself Amazon offers these items Plugs
I can image cutting one of the smaller ones 1/16 inch diameter to size these plugs are tapered so the size could be improvised. Then use some RTV to bond it in place.
I am just thinking out load here so I really don’t know if this would work.

This nubbin issue is really bothering me I don’t know if I will buy a light because of it. It is IMO a manufacturing flaw the design is clear I think it was executed improperly.

My 2 cents

Also a suggestion for the adhesive - Pliobond. It’s a very tacky contact cement that resists solvents. I’ve been using it when repairing old cameras, gluing everything from light seals to rubber bumpers to the old peeling leatherette on the bodies. If it’s improperly placed, once the carrier solvent evaporates it peels away with no residue.

Silicone.

Just hold onto your nubbin.

Silicone comes unstuck to easily. Goop much more tenacious bond and remains flexible. Maybe this whole thing is a non issue if the switch is never taken apart. Has anyone’s come un-nubbined otherwise?

If the switch isn’t disassembled I don’t think there is room for that to happen?

It would be nice to know the materials being used so one could use an appropriate adhesive.
If mine gives me issues I might try Bison’s Plastic Adhesive since it’s what I have.
But I don’t have high hopes for it working since I’ve a suspicion that the big part might be PP which the Bison isn’t suitable for.
In case someone wonders, that Bison adhesive is just a mix of PVC and solvents so it sort of “melts” the parts together.

Unfortunately I don’t have a very good soldering station so can’t really test the softening or melting point of the plastic accurately.

Yep… :+1:
If you don’t happen to have any Silicon laying around, you can use one of the below if you happen to have them:

3M™ Weatherstrip Adhesive

It even comes in 3 decorator colors… Clear, Black, & Yellow …… to expand your choices. :wink:

And if you want your nubbin to never ever come loose, use a dab of this:

3M 5200

Bottom line… just about anything will work.

BUT…. whatever you use, clean the old glue completely off both the nubbin & the rubber switch cover. This is important if you want the new glue to bond correctly.

Aquarium silicone is about as good as you’ll get for any mastic type stuff.

there is no need to disassemble the tailcap...

if a repair will be necessary on day its good to know upfront to look at a small part not to disappear.

otherwise :leave it as it is and stay happy ;)

Best advice so far…… :beer:

You don't have to tell me twice!

:open_mouth: common sense prevails once again…. :beer:

I just removed the clip because I plan to holster it ( of course, bezel side up while doing it), and aside from the usual black o-ring, there also was a thin, white o-ring placed in front of the clip (facing to the head) presumably to prevent the clip from rattling.

What do you guys think, put back the white o-ring back when the clip is off?

Today in FW3A news: Big feels for little nubs.

That O-ring is there to keep the clip from rotating when the tailcap is tightened. If you don’t use the clip, it may be a good idea to take the white O-ring off too… and replace it with a thicker one to fill the gap. It doesn’t matter for waterproofing, but putting something in that gap gives it a better tactile feel.

I had a lose Driver retainer ring on my flaschlight. I could hear it wgile opening for inserting the battery.

I experienced the same issue with the driver not sitting against the keyed section properly. It's fixed for now, but it took some effort for two reasons:

  1. The retaining ring has loads of slop in relation to the threads, and can come extremely close to the inner contact ring.
  2. No one bothered to blow my sample out after machining, and there were tiny aluminum chips trying to short circuit whatever components they could.

Hopefully it's fixed now and I didn't miss any stray chips that are waiting to cause more trouble.

I hope this is the right place to ask. I have never modded a flashlight in my life, nor ever used a solder. But I couldn’t wait any longer and ordered one in XP-L HI 3D. I hope to replace the LEDs with LH351D 4000ks. How difficult will it be to do this mod? I assume it’s best to replace the entire MCPCB and I know Kaidomain and Mountain Electronics both sell triple LH351Ds pre-mounted. Will I just need to buy one of those boards and a solder gun? I apologize for being a total muggle but any information would be much appreciated.

In theory, yes. However, some Kaidomain triple boards need different optics. The ones I have don’t match with Carclo optics.