Some ideas - probably you’ll be doing these anyway but just thought I’d pop them in!
Optics, I believe there were 4 (item numbers 10507, 10508, 10509 & 10511 I think and what they do to throw etc) and where to buy them - I did see it in the main thread but like all the info it’s lost forever in a million posts.
Holsters that fit
Modding bits, glow tapes/ disks, trits etc. Someone even did drilled optics, but they were a little expensive for me sadly (a lot of work is involved in making them though)
Diffusers for the ‘play’ modes lightening , candle etc - the rubber cone/dome things
Batteries - their pros and cons with this particular light
I guess more ideas will follow from others when they get their lights and start playing
My light is on it’s way, traveling by Yodel, which is always fun
From the pictures I have seen, for a single central vial install it looks like the centre nub in the steel cover can be ground down/ slotted, a hole or slot into that with a 6mm x 1.5mm trit & UV glue and then some playing around with the nub on the rubber switch boot. Maybe also use a thinner vial there.
Or as you say three trits in a triangle shape etc would look really nice too.
This is not going to be about mods or anything… it is just going to be a listing of simple things that TK can put a link to in the FW3A Thread OP… according to her…. IIUC.
I know …. Yodel! same here!
I’m kinda surprised someone on here doesn’t sort of mass produce some trit switches for this, once programmed the time and cost would be minimal - next to no materials either and the milling would take a matter of minutes. I could make some on the lathe, but no milling option sadly.
I hear you actually…. I wish it could ’somehow’ be us two at the end, 1 & 2.
I would honestly be good with either being 1.
As long as they both “showed up” & played that is. I couldn’t take a repeat of last year on our part at the end… :cry: . :person_facepalming: . :person_facepalming: …
RTR & GT
It’s one of those things new users should know, along with “open the front, not the back”. It works a lot better after it’s calibrated, and it only needs to be done once.
Check… I made mention of the Thermal Calibration in the OP, directing users to the detailed explanation on page #11 of the FW3A User Manual. I can’t explain it any clearer than that.
I looked for the FW3A User Manual too, so as to add a link to it; but I can’t find it if there is one. If you or anyone knows of one, direct me to it and I’ll certainly add a link to it. :+1: