NOTHING needs to be done for the tail switch, so long as you donāt open the light at the tail. As long as you always open the light at the head, the switch is fine as-is.
However, you might wish to open it up the tail to see the switch guts or remove the clip. Or you might be worried someone will forget and accidentally open the tail rather than the head during a battery change.
If that is a concern, there is a possibility that the little nubbin in the switch boot might fall out and get lost. To prevent that from happening, you may wish to glue the nubbin in place.
I have not bothered to glue the nubbin in either of my FW3As since I have not opened the tailcap.
I may give two of mine away as gifts to my father and father-in-law who have come to enjoy flashlights. Plus, I seriously doubt Iāll remember that this light must NEVER be opened from the tail. One slip up and Iāll regret not gluing it immediately.
So for those reasons, I should probably go ahead and fix the issue.
If youāre giving an FW3A to a muggle, rather than gluing the nubbin it might be better just to add some threadlocker to the tailcap threads. That way the muggle wonāt accidentally open the tailcap and cause the switch to fall out.
You can use a small amount of blue threadlocker so it can be removed with a lot of strength.
It would be better to explain the problem and suggest to be careful when removing the tailcap by doing it on a table in case they want to remove the pocket clip.
Gluing, thread locking things itās always better to āeducateā.
Just curiousāhow many besides me ordered one of each tint and has been wishing they had placed two separate orders?
Iām a pretty patient guy, but I keep feeling so jealous of everyone receiving theirs already. I chose expedited shipping but should just made two orders with free shipping.
No big deal. Just wondering how many others were in a similar situation.
A day later I was thinking āI should have gotten one of each tintā¦ then Iād have some 7A LEDs to play with and could mix and match them with 3Dā.
But a few days later when my FW3As arrived I was quite thankful that Iād ordered 3D only. I was one of the very first to receive this light and didnāt have to wait.
There is only one SC62w tint. ZebraLight uses a different model number for each tint. SC62 is cool white, SC62w is neutral, SC62c is high-CRI 4000K, and SC62d is high-CRI 5000K.
The āwā tint has changed a bit over time though. When they made the ā1ā models like H51w, it was 4200K. With the ā2ā models like H52w, it was 4400K. And with the ā3ā and ā4ā models, itās 4500K.
Hello
I just add the XPL HI 1A version to the list
as the 7A and 3D need to wait to a few days to restock.
if you prefer CW you can PM me to change to 1A.
and I start to ship the 7A today, 300PCS here now, will try to ship all of them today.
I am right there with youā¦ I ordered one of each tint on the same transaction.
I am at the end of the wait list, though, so it might not have helped if I split my order. But I wish I had tried.