FW3A Useful Information.....

BLF Special Edition Products
17

My light is on it’s way, traveling by Yodel, which is always fun :laughing:

From the pictures I have seen, for a single central vial install it looks like the centre nub in the steel cover can be ground down/ slotted, a hole or slot into that with a 6mm x 1.5mm trit & UV glue and then some playing around with the nub on the rubber switch boot. Maybe also use a thinner vial there.
Or as you say three trits in a triangle shape etc would look really nice too.

18

This is not going to be about mods or anything… it is just going to be a listing of simple things that TK can put a link to in the FW3A Thread OP… according to her…. IIUC.

19

I know …. Yodel! same here!
I’m kinda surprised someone on here doesn’t sort of mass produce some trit switches for this, once programmed the time and cost would be minimal - next to no materials either and the milling would take a matter of minutes. I could make some on the lathe, but no milling option sadly.

20

Thanks you for creating this thread, teacher.

I'm sure it will help a lot of BLF members.

21

GO TIGERS

22

My pleasure raccoon city. :+1:
Hopefully it will help those that need it. :slight_smile:

23

This might be a topic for a more advanced guide, and it’s not strictly unique to the FW3A:

How about including some notes on calibrating the thermal sensor in Andúril? Might help some folks squeeze out a few extra seconds on turbo.

Also, I don’t see a link to the manual at all. Maybe include that near the top, at the very least.

24

Yeah right… :wink:
You been in the swamp to long buddy…… :smiley:

I hear you actually…. I wish it could ’somehow’ be us two at the end, 1 & 2.
I would honestly be good with either being 1.
As long as they both “showed up” & played that is. I couldn’t take a repeat of last year on our part at the end… :cry: . :person_facepalming: . :person_facepalming: … :smiley:
RTR & GT

25

The FW3A uses standard 20mm triple stars compatible with the Carclo 20mm triple-TIR optic.

This means standard 20mm Noctigon triple stars fit perfectly.

26

Good idea. :slight_smile:

It’s one of those things new users should know, along with “open the front, not the back”. It works a lot better after it’s calibrated, and it only needs to be done once.

27

nice thread!

thanks for the work

28

Thanks for putting this together!

29

Check… I made mention of the Thermal Calibration in the OP, directing users to the detailed explanation on page #11 of the FW3A User Manual. I can’t explain it any clearer than that.

I looked for the FW3A User Manual too, so as to add a link to it; but I can’t find it if there is one. If you or anyone knows of one, direct me to it and I’ll certainly add a link to it. :+1:

30

This link is posted on Neal’s site:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0031/0155/6806/files/Anduril\_-\_FW3A_user_manual.pdf?16

31

ZozzV6 made a video about Andúril’s configuration, here a link which starts with thermal config : https://youtu.be/h_mZ35IPLMA?t=742

32

@ Sudsy & Tally-ho….

Thank you both for the info, I got it posted. :+1: . :beer:

33

Good Job Teach………. Thank You!!

34

The thermal config is the first thing you should do with every FW3A since they aren’t calibrated at the factory and have a very low default limit set. The two lights I’ve tested so far both throttled down to the bare minimum 1x7135 level (about 135 lumens) because they thought room temperature was too high.

35

I already have 3 LH351D here to replace the original leds. Now i want to order a new optic.
I want thelight to be as floody as possible. Will the Carlclo 10509 also fit the LH351D?

36

Yes.