Before shaving it, the hotspot was rosy but carona was green and yellow. Unbearable!
Now it’s a rosy golden colour. When I put the reflector on the spill was very slightly blue but that’s because of the AR lens. I tested it without the lens and the tint was very consistent. I will try and take a picture tonight next to a Luxeon V 4000K for comparison.
Cree LED’s from Kaidomain. To my eyes, the sliced XHP50.2 has a slight green tint at lower current, like some Nichia 219 C’s. But at higher current it goes pure white.
Interesting! Judging from the pictures the tint of the sliced XHP50.2 6000K gets close to the 4000K Luxeon V. Does the XHP50.2 look like 4000K or 5000K also in reality?
There is a dedicated tool called a microtome to cut very slim slice of materials to be view under a microscope. They are also used in pogotonomy (the art of shaving).
A microtome has a chisel profil with a flat ground or an hollow ground. An hollow ground makes it a very good slicer, the blade being very thin behind the edge.
Today I started to sharpen a knife, which cost about a dollar (yeah, I collected some sharpening stones and “scary sharp” lapping sheets). Hopefully, I will have the desired blade, something similar than in your picture. The only problem, that I can’t create such beautiful blade shape, as some of the Japanese sharpeners on Youtube. Maybe, it will just take some more time.
That pogotonomy… this is, when someone cuts a piece of hair to 14 pieces? Maybe I will be able to do the same, although not lengthwise but breadthwise :person_facepalming:
5000K, maybe a bit lower, very close to the 4800K in one of my special edition S1R Baton II’s. But I’m considering buying an MHVast TS70 and also slicing the dome.
I need one of those scalpels the guys are mentioning here… Damn!
1mm aluminium plate for an XHP70 … interesting … at first I was afraid of using the 1.33mm thick washer on my XM-L nock-off looking LEDs, but 1.04 worked good as well.
Unfortunately, my cut does not look better than these I will post some pictures also, if I find out how to make beamshot pictures with an anyway dead lamp (some wires and batteries will do, I think)
In the first shot of the XHP70.2 with only the phosphor removed from the die and the dome still on, would leaving the led like this improve the tint in a flooder if throw isn’t the goal? curious if anyone’s done this for some reason and what their result was.
Refreshing this a bit after a long while. Has there been any ways to dedome a XHP70.2? Or is slicing the only way?
I love my 3000K Convoy M26D with pebbled TIR as a evening/reading light, but it’s still a bit too cool, especially since I’ve dedomed my 519A 2700K D4V2. The pebbled TIR will take care of any tint shift etc, so I won’t be removing the surrounding phosphor
Slicing is the only way I think, it can’t be peeled off like a 519a as there is no glass layer above the phosphor (so you would just peel the phosphor off with it) and the dome is much too stiff. Slicing is pretty easy even without a 1mm guide; I found it much easier if you do it gradually i.e. taking a couple of mm off at a time rather than the whole dome in one go.
I know people used to dedome older emitters using petrol or other solvents so there may well be other methods. I think this requires sealing the phosphor with something afterwards though (like spray on clear coat) as the phosphor doesn’t like being exposed.