I like Luxpro lights for burning off “dead” alkaleaks, and this critter that takes 2 D cells, an LP1101V2, is a nice beefy light in most ways, but has a front “glass” that’s actually plastic. :person_facepalming:
Wellp, I couldn’t abide that, so decided to stick in a glass replacement from FT for about a buk, and slap on some diffusion film to smooth out the XP-G3’s hideous beam.
It’s a pretty standard ⌀42mm×1.5mm glass, same size as from a C8. Drops right in (albeit a little snug getting past the threads), loads just like a S2+, pressed from behind by the reflector against an O-ring set into the front bezel.
Nice light, actually. Even if you’re not gonna use alkaleaks (ie, you’re sane), you can get a pair of 3AA-to-D adapters and drop in a bunch of eneloops in a 2S3P configuration, and you’re good to go.
That’s what I’m using to burn off moribund alkaleaks (ie, sanity’s in question), but watching them carefully and checking them frequently.
It’s not a screamer, but for a good backup light, it’s quite nice.
Hmm, I might wanna throw in a nice fat XP-L if I can find one in 4C or thereabouts… I might even have a 5A.
SST20 3000K, triple MCPCB from KD (1mm thick) and their optic (really smooth beam), plus a small alu spacer that I made today at work.
I had to add some length to the stock wires, but the good news is that the stock pill already have a 4mm hole right in the center.
It’s not waterproof anymore, I like when the optic sits flush in the bezel but it’s doable with an o-ring too.
I love it already.
Oh, it does 600 lumens on the highest mode too… not too shabby for a 95CRI 3000K source !
(the precedent LH351D with stock reflector was about 470 lumens, talk about low current efficiency !)
I changed the look of my Q8 since I wasn’t a fan of the black, and green button LED. It now has a more industrial look with the bare aluminium and warm white LED. I am quite pleased with how steampunk’y it now looks!
Nice mod. Thank you for the informative pictures. I may try SST-20 in my RRT01, when I get it. For me, the difficulty would be sourcing a spacer. And finding an SST-20 tint that agrees with me.
Polished raw BLF A6 with OSRAM KW CSLPM1.TG and Convoy SST-40 driver. LED gasket from intl-outdoor. Armytek clip and transparent boot. 6.8A max tail current on turn on.
First I made a template from an old 20mm triple MCPCB to match up with a Carclo 105xx optic. 65mm steel box lid.
This is the most difficult & time consuming part but only needs done once.
A piece of sticky tape placed on the steel surface sticky side up.
6mm x 2mm and 3mm x 2mm magnets, three of each for the optic & leg holes.
Place the 6mm magnets onto the sticky tape using the template.
Then add the 3mm magnets and remove the template, apply non stick grease carefully around the magnets & tape.
Template back in place and thin 20mm ID x 2mm outer ring fitted around the template with four large magnets to keep it from movement.
Carefully remove the template again and now we have a mould.
Mix up some GITD powder and UV setting glue.
Apply the mixture to the centre of the mould and allow it to slowly bleed out to the extremities on a flat surface until even.
Next is setting the glue mixture using a UV light source and then slide the tape and moud from the steel.
Carefully peel the tape from the back of the mould and press out the magnets with something like a thin screwdriver.
Remove the outer ring and sand down the surfaces of the gasket.
A little tidying up the well holes with a scalpel blade and it is just about done.
I've found these to be superior to the tape method, although initially more effort.
Yes but the orange/reds etc are mostly zinc powders and aren’t very bright for very long.
The green or cyan/ aqua blue is brightest probably followed by yellow, orange, blue, red - down to violet.
Inspired by the D18 tint mixing. I wanted to finally give it a go.
Heard both negative and positive opinions about mixing leds.
In my case i changed two of the four 219C 5000K emitters in a D4 with two 219C 4000K.
I know that doesn’t magically make it 4500K. But i was surprised by the result. Way better than expected.
Here’s a comparison:
D4 with 219B 4500K
D4 with 219C 4000K + 5000K
and a D4 with all 5000K
all three @ turbo. all three with a Sony VTC6
Camera: Canon EOS 40D (1/2Sec - f/3.5 - ISO160 - WB 4500K)
It doesn’t have the rosyness of the 219B, but in a side by side comparison it shows how much more lumens the 219C produce.
And the results were amazing (to my eyes). It’s still a little green. But the addition of some 4000K makes the beam way more lovely.
Not as pretty as 219B 4500, but close, and with more output.
