FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

This “problem” it happens in my two Fireflies E07 with Anduril, so it’s due to the design of Anduril and not the FW3A.

no, only 1 x 18650 and 2 of those batteries wouldnt produce more output anyways.

Yeah.

And you’d be killing everything inside of the light.

And you’d be getting less capacity.
And you’d actually lose output even if it worked.

The average value can be considered as medium but in details, colors rendition are pretty mediocre : see Bob_McBob’s measurements here.
The black circle is the reference light, the red circle is for the XP-L HI 3D. The more the point drifts within the circle, the more the colors are desaturated in the corresponding region. The more the arrow drifts from the perpendicular to the edge of the circle (on the left or on the right), the more the hue drifts from the reference point.
See local chroma shift graph and local hue shift graph.

I read on reddit and here that there will be a copper version coming in the future, is this speculation or confirmed?

Copper and Titanium

Just like the D4ti, nice.

Yeah, i was hoping for a less expensive solution :wink:

This should probably be in every FAQ, just after the part where it tells people to put the battery in from the front instead of the back. It seems to be one of the main things people don’t know, but should.

If muggle mode steps down, you need to calibrate the temperature sensor.

This only needs to be done once, when the light is new. Afterward, the value is saved permanently so there should not be a need to do it ever again.

The sensor is built in to the attiny85 chip, and the attiny factory does not calibrate it. The flashlight factory does not calibrate it either. This, unfortunately, leaves that job to the user. If it is not calibrated, it will have no idea what the temperature is. It could be off by as much as 25 C.

To calibrate it:

  1. Let the light settle to room temperature.
  2. Go to the thermal config mode.
  3. At the first menu option, while the light flickers and waits for input, click to enter the current room temperature. This is typically about 20 to 25 C, meaning 20 to 25 clicks.
  4. Wait until the light falls out of the menu.

On this version of Anduril, here’s how to get to thermal config mode:

  1. From off, click 3 times. This goes to battery check mode.
  2. Click twice. This goes to sunset mode.
  3. Click twice. This goes to beacon mode.
  4. Click twice. This goes to temperature check mode.
  5. If you feel like it, let the light blink out what it thinks is the current temperature. On a new light, this number is probably wrong. Have a laugh.
  6. Click 4 times to reach thermal config.

This is also shown in the UI diagram. Follow the pink line:

On newer versions, I’ve also added a shortcut to this, using ten clicks from off. But that’s a very recent thing, and isn’t on the FW3A yet.

Based on experience, muggles (i.e., kids) tend to like to click things a lot. They could very easily do 10 clicks in a row, then who knows what to the thermal setting.

Maybe this is already the case, but perhaps don’t allow users to enter configuration settings if in muggle mode. I’m guessing you already did that, but just in case…

Without the 10 clicks, it’s not so important. It seems difficult to get into thermal config by accident.

To calibrate it:

  1. Let the light settle to room temperature.
  2. Go to the thermal config mode.
  3. At the first menu option, while the light flickers and waits for input, click to enter the current room temperature. This is typically about 20 to 25 C, meaning 20 to 25 clicks.
  4. Wait until the light falls out of the menu.


    thank you for the simple explanation here. Could you please explain in simplicity part 2, the temperature limit thing? Thank you from us who find this rather confusing … even after watching M4DM4X video of it :wink:

@ Saypat

Here you go, in detail…. Temperature Calibration & Setting Temperature Limit

:+1:

thank you kindly teacher, appreciate your help….

My FW3A arrived on Saturday, but I was away—just picked it up out of the mailbox. It wasn’t functioning right out of the box. It would not stay on. I discovered that the tail cap wasn’t fully seated (per the instructions I had inserted the battery by removing the head — hadn’t touched the tail). After tightening it, it worked initially, but would “wink out” on max. Apparently the seating wasn’t quite complete, so I loosened the tail cap then tightened it again. After that, it started working OK.

Overall, seems like a terrific light. Has that HDS form factor with superior UI. Can’t get over how it’s only a few millimeters taller than an Astrolux S43 with 18350 battery tube, while the FW3A uses an 18650. Truly remarkable. Glad I got this and thanks to the FW3A team & Neal for the wonderful Group Buy opportunity!

My pleasure… :+1:

Buy them from someone who pulls them from their light. I'm guessing they probably don't want them very much if they are pulling them. If you're in Germany maybe Lexel? Odds are at some point he'll be modding a few FW3A's for some folks . Maybe start watching some of the mod threads or start a WTB thread .

I just got my shipping notification from Neal for one 7A and one 3D. I was the 1472nd person in line for the coupon code private message, so we must be very close to the end of shipping out all the pre order lights!!
:partying_face:

They are not being shipped out in any particular order.

Has tracking stopped for anyone else today? I get an error in Chinese, Google translate suggests “please enter verification code”