OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
654

You could do that and get a good result, but personally I’m always actually checking the beam at low current (I usually clip my led tester at 50mA to the driver spring and body, and hold the loose reflector over the led+gasket) before I decide that focus is correct, and if not correct I adjust the gasket height.

You can work on the gasket, checking with reflector after each change, even with the bare board outside the flashlight, as long as you can clip a led tester to the board, i.e. you van temporarily solder some ledwires to the board for the connection.

I have learned over time that patiently taking time getting the gasket right is very much worth the trouble, despite how insignificant that little plastic thingy looks like.

655

When I say correct focus, I mean that I check for each configuration @10m with my luxmeter.
It’s long, but in the end you know what you have

656

Wellp, I'm no expert in this but, according to this advice from master djozz, should I file the gasket as low as possible? I think someone said somewhere he was sitting the reflector right over the led board for White Flats, using polyimide film for insulating purposes. I also have polyimide film but I'd prefer to leave some centering stuff for peace of mind in case some muggle unscrews the bezel and loosens the reflector.

I don't even know how to make a photograph of the beam right now, that would help doesn't it? This stuff:

Do I need to generate some good deal of smoke to attain this?

:-)

657

I wasn’t quite the master in centering leds when I wrote that in 2014 :confounded: and am still learning.

658

You are Master Djozz! I learned a lot from you :+1: :beer:

659

Barkuti, what if you just use plastic reflector without any gaskets? :sunglasses:

660

I like the smell of burnt plastic too

661

Plastic gaskets can melt too. In all my >4Amps flashlights I have to use pliers to remove gaskets which sticked to the board after some longer time. Maybe I am using some bad gaskets. Or can add some thin ptfe tape under to avoid sticking the reflector.

662

Gaskets would best be made from electrically insulative materials that are somewhat hard and have a maximum continuous service temperature of around 150°C or greater such as PEI, G7, G11, etc. Acetal is only rated for 105°C or so.

663

I’ve never had a white one melt but I have had 2 black ones melt

664

That picture was made by me :smiley:
My wife was cooking a lot in winter and everything closed in the house. I made this picture very close to the kitchen :wink:
For centering rings in C8 I usually sand down the gaskets. It is not true they are self centering themselves on a white flat led. If the MCPCB is not in perfect center it will be no good. Also reflector can move sideways a little while tightening down. I used to shine to the ceiling while tightening the bezel last few turns and smack a little the side of the head and every time I just tightening a little and then smack again if the spot is not perfect.

665

I’ve only been able to fins centring gaskets for the white flat at Mountain Electronics and Intl-Outdoor. Does anybody else sell them?

666

it would be nice if someone can make some custom centering gaskets.
i am interesting to buy one for my KD 86mm reflector (19.5mm)

667

KW CULNM1.TG is 4.0x4.0mm version of KW CSLNM1.TG (or 1mm2 version of Oslon boost HX), with lower thermal resistance, I tested two 5Q bin samples under same conditions (fan cooled heatsink), results:

So we got the first white LED that broke 1000lm/mm2 barrier (by a decent margin in case of higher performing sample)

What can be seen from numbers is two samples are within 5Q bin rating (710 - 800lm@3A), but one is at bottom and other is closer to upper level. 5Q bin is comparable to 6N bin of CSLNM1.TG (315-355lm at 1A).

Compared to CSLNM1.TG (white flat) peak current is just a litlle bit higher 6.0-6.5A vs ~5.75A. I was surprised by this, I expected more like 7A, but it seems droop effect at these current densities becomes so dominant that output stops increasing even if you cool LED die well.

But CULNM1.TG's lower thermal resistance does help and max. output is higher at high currents.

Also the other good thing about lower thermal resistance is lower junction temperature, at 6Amps die temperature is about 75C higher than ambient, CSLNM1.TG temperature at 6Amps would be ~96C higher than ambient. So CULNM1.TG should be more reliable /longer living at high currents.

Disadvantage is considerably higher price compared to CSLNM1.TG and the fact that it has been already "scheduled for obsolescence " by OSRAM due to lower than expected demand.

668

“…lower than expected demand.” :frowning:

I know we can’t fix that with our paltry numbers, compared to corporate purchasers. But it would be nice if we could help it a little with a group buy or something. :wink:

What is the price for these? Can they go cheaper because of otherwise low demand? :innocent:

PS: Remember too, that the L4P Q8 replacement MCPCB has 4040 pads on it. :partying_face:

669

A little less than I expected….but nevertheless HAIL TO THE NEW KING.
It makes 336 cd/mm², twice as much as XP-L HI (which needs > 4.2V to reach its max). And it’s better than Black Flat by a third.

L4P could you share the datasheet?

ADDED: BTW, according to my notes Enderman got 1115 lm out of White Flat. Though I guess this is more of a test setup difference, I strongly suspect that your lumens are different than his lumens.

670

How long until 2mm boost hx?

671

I’m definitely interested in 2

672

KW CULNM1.TG is 4.0x4.0mm version of KW CSLNM1.TG!!!

Whoa! More lumens plus more lux and yet Osram wants to discontinue that :person_facepalming: ?

Nice find L4P!

673

I measured 950-980lm for white flat if that helps, but neither of us have proper integrating sphere.