Thanks mate, yeah it was about the only way I could do it without machines and retain most of the original machined button look.
This is why I was so dismayed when that wabbit appeared on the final prototype!
Funny, I’ve been looking at a 4mm x 1.3mm x 7mm rectangular green vial that I can get over here.
It would completely cover the tail switch hole but I also like it as is with the variable brightness due to the GITD backing the trit as I have it now. Decisions decisions…
From the diagram I can see you in 8x7135 mode, get 3 times sustainable output, 900 lm, compared to the original FW3A 300lm. How do you explain this enormous improvement? How is it possible?
Bypassed springs, thicker LED wires, cleaned & tweaked contacts, Noctigon MCPCB, better thermal paste, the light set to 65°C thermal limit, hand cooled & moving around, not standing alone untouched.
I have working mans hands so can take some abuse
Bearing in mind my sphere is not calibrated the output is close to what others have given for that level.
3x XP-L HI should give around that OTF lumens at 3A.
You may be referring to the stock light set up to 45°C thermal limit?
The thermal limit setting and cooling are factors that will determine the sustained output.
A single XP-L HI v2 running at 1A /65°C should give around 400lm.
No idea. I’m not familiar at all with that light. A quick look, it’s pretty big so has a potential to hold brighter for longer.
It’s also not so much the mods but rather what temperature you’re comfortable holding, ambient temp, LEDs, driver etc.
All lights will become heat saturated at some point, obviously the more mass, cooler surroundings etc the longer that will take at a given wattage.