I recognize the big peaks and valleys from the older version, the tighter ocillations to replace the big peaks in the newer one look like they’ll be nice. Even better!
The S42’s problem wasn’t a matter of BLF not having any production samples. BLF wasn’t even involved. It looked from the outside like the S42 simply wasn’t tested at all. It couldn’t even turn on, since the batteries it was designed for wouldn’t fit inside. And that was only the beginning of its problems.
It was such a big failure that Astrolux made some huge changes in how the company operates, and insisted on getting people from BLF involved in the next model.
Anyway, the BLF Lantern is nothing like that. TBH, I would be pretty happy with it even if the production model was exactly like the prototype. The only major things I want to change about it are to give it newer firmware. I didn’t even try to get it calibrated correctly before a prototype arrived, so the proto firmware is definitely a bit out of tune. But I have most of the necessary changes done now, and am just finishing up a few final things.
I do really like its efficiency and size, also its one of the few good solar chargers that has a built in “charge reset circuit mode” every couple minutes. ( meaning if a cloud passes over & voltage drops, it automatically will reset the charging shutdown feature in most Apple products like Iphones & IPads to they can continue charging.
I was just using S42 as an example of shipping a product before you made production samples and tested, could have used a toaster where the toast doesn’t fit, not suggesting any BLF involvement.
Glad to hear that, but having ordered two (one as a gift) it just put me off completely any Astrolux product, I have not looked since at one of their products.
I think with this one I need to learn how to flash the firmware so I can put your latest on, is there a post with the final driver details in? I assume this picture in the first post is current?
I saw a thread on programming on a “key” but I don’t see a header on this PCB, would you need to clip to the chip directly? (I am ploughing through the link in your signature for instructions at the moment in an attempt to RTFM)
EDIT: I take it back, the base of the board has a row of 4 pads inside the ring for the battery tube contact, is that the programming header?
EDIT2: Right next to the word “programming” :person_facepalming:
Off to find that thread on the programming board/key…
I see two different ones available in the jungle store. When open, one is roughly square with two panels, and one is rectangular with three smaller panels. One of the rectangular ones is only $16, while the other ones are $30. Which style or 10W panel do you have? (DBSAR and goshdogit)
Do not get the clone with square panels! - I have the real Eceen 10-watt folding panel,)(that has the cut corners of the cells) This one, but its from the Amazon.ca Canadian site, its available form the Amazon.com US site too. >> Amazon.ca
I have the same ECEEN 10 Watt model that Den has in his video, but mine is black and his is camouflage. They fold in half and close with a zipper around three sides and look like this:
I got mine on ‘the auction site’ for $14 late last summer. It think it may have been a pricing error.
Den and I discussed this ECEEN panel a while back, and I linked to a couple of review videos I found. One of them discusses the ‘automatic reset’ function that Den mentioned.
Yes, it works. The HQ ProgKey Universal adapter is what I’m using. It works with any layout which has the pads spaced at the right distance, as long as it’s 4x2 or smaller. Admittedly, that’s still pretty specific… but it’s universal as far as my current set of drivers go. I have a few different drivers with different pad layouts.
Either one should work though. I just went with this one because it’s smaller, cheaper, slightly more flexible, and easier to reconfigure.