So… yeah. To be safe, click 20 times at the first option and 20 times at the second option. If you’re anywhere close to an average room temperature, that should give it a sane thermal config.
I was mostly just pointing out that, if you click the same number of times at both, it should end up with a temperature limit 30 C higher than your current room temperature… whatever that is. And technically, that can be shortened to 1 click at each option, but only if you don’t care about having accurate values in the temperature check mode.
But it seems that was confusing, so it’d be best to enter accurate values instead.
It shouldn’t be possible for the light to overheat in muggle mode, because it’s limited to such low power. But people wanted it to be really safe, so they can let kids use it. So if it does detect a “getting kinda hot” condition, it doesn’t even try to regulate the output… instead, it panics and drops to the lowest level.
This worked fine in testing, but it seems that some lights detect enough heat to trigger the panic response. It sounds like it’s probably sensing noise in the ADC readings instead of an actual high temperature though.
Do you think it should have the muggle thermal condition removed, so it ignores temperature? It shouldn’t be overheating in that mode at all, and it seems to mostly just cause problems.
No… just forget everything you knew or thought you knew.
Read the instructions below that came word for word from the FW3A User Manual & follow them exactly.
This is how it is done correctly… taken straight from the FW3A User Manual that came in the box:
Thermal configuration
Look at a thermometer to check the current room temperature. Let us assume it says 21 Celsius Turn the light off and wait for its temperature to settle to room temperature.
Go to TempCheck
When you are in TempCheck, then click 4 times to enter thermal config mode, and calibrate the sensor.
Thermal config mode has two settings:
1. Current temperature Calibration.
Click once per degree C to calibrate the sensor. For our example, the ambient temperature is 21 C = click 21 times.
2. Temperature limit.
This sets the maximum temperature the light can reach before it will start doing thermal regulation to keep itself from overheating. Click once per degree C above 30. For example, to set the limit to 50 C, click 20 times.
The default is 45 C (15 clicks).
Hint: If you don’t click,the lamp will leave the value unchanged.
The lowest value the user can set is 31 C, by clicking once.
Edit
Mine behaves normally now, I did take it apart & cleaned it & took the retaining ring out & put it back ( there was nothing to clean to be honest) , and I was also disappointed because it steps down almost straight away on turbo ,so I set it to 70* ,but it still stepped down straight away ,I then did it again & it still steps down quicker than I like but it’s better , but anyway Muggles behaves ok now.
You saw the light flash when you started screwing in the battery tube. This means main power is connected to the driver. However, nothing happens when you press the button. The problem is likely the switch connection to the driver. Try the following:
open the light up and confirm that the driver is in its socket the driver retaining ring is tight.
examine the contact ring for the inner tube at both the driver and the tailcap. Make sure there is no debris present that would prevent them from making connection.
Reassemble. Tighten the tailcap first. Make it tight quite. Then put in the battery and tighten the head.
I got through thermal config OK (Light thought it was 45C in a 28C room - LOL) with the visual guide. But I thought I had done something weird with the ramp config veiling - was disturbingly dim after setting the levels and steps for stepped ramp!
By actually RTFM’ing , I learned that one subtracts the desired value from 151.
The battery tube and inner tube is too short for protected cells. So the only mods I can think if are to extend both of them the exact same amount. This is pretty hard to do.
Maybe you could find or mod a protected 18650 to have a very short length. Like 67mm.
Both ends of the battery tube have unanodized threads so you either have to seperate the head or maybe unscrew the head far enough that the battery springs loose contact. Unscrewing just a little may or may not cut power.
Make sure the light has fully cooled down internally before setting the ambient temperature.
If it thought it was 45° and the step down is also 45° it may not even allow more than 150 lumen. That’s no good. Lol
Yes, it’s a bug, mine does the same. Even when testing back to back, sometimes it steps down in a couple of seconds, but after ramping it back up, it doesn’t do it. Now it’s been running for 15 minutes without stepping down from muggle ramp max and the surface temp is 42°C. Output has only dropped 5%.
Out of interest, in regards to the thermal configuration, what would be a maximum sensible temperature to set the step-down at, to avoid damaging the light itself?