FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Good… glad to hear your up & going!! :+1:

The battery tube and inner tube is too short for protected cells. So the only mods I can think if are to extend both of them the exact same amount. This is pretty hard to do.

Maybe you could find or mod a protected 18650 to have a very short length. Like 67mm.

Both ends of the battery tube have unanodized threads so you either have to seperate the head or maybe unscrew the head far enough that the battery springs loose contact. Unscrewing just a little may or may not cut power.

Make sure the light has fully cooled down internally before setting the ambient temperature.
If it thought it was 45° and the step down is also 45° it may not even allow more than 150 lumen. That’s no good. Lol

Yes, it’s a bug, mine does the same. Even when testing back to back, sometimes it steps down in a couple of seconds, but after ramping it back up, it doesn’t do it. Now it’s been running for 15 minutes without stepping down from muggle ramp max and the surface temp is 42°C. Output has only dropped 5%.

edit: stepped down now after 16 minutes.

Out of interest, in regards to the thermal configuration, what would be a maximum sensible temperature to set the step-down at, to avoid damaging the light itself?

There’s a few thresholds that you can choose:

Most electronics, including the led, can function above 200degC.
But when Pb/Sn solder is used, the unsolder temperature of all that stuff is about 180degC.
Li-ion batteries can go wrong above 150degC (although high current IMR-type batteries can withstand higher)
But for them to live long and happy lives you should keep them below 80degC.
Your hands however feel pain above 55degC.
And they still feel comfortable below 50degC.

Thanks djozz, that’s some useful info there!

Something’s wrong with my new FW3A :frowning:

As soon as I insert a battery, the light goes on. I can’t switch it off, the switch erratically changes brightness and modes.

I don’t think it’s related to the battery tube or the switch itself. If I connect a battery directly to the head (+ to the spring, - to the threads) it also comes on immediately.

Anybody experienced a similar behavior? What could be the reason for it?

Looks like you clicked 5 times instead of 4 so now the light is locked in momentary mode, what you have to do is to remove the head (only way to get out of the momentary mode is to remove power) and take it back, that should take you back to normal mode.

Please don't ask how i know

Mine did it but not now ,but I’m wondering If it was because I was playing with it on turbo before I switched to muggles.

ahh i was hoping mine would arrive this week but guess not :frowning:

14 May 2019

Shipment en route

Sweden

4:31 PM

At sorting center

2:19 PM

Hmmm, that really is odd. So it doesn’t immediately go to turbo and stay there? It actually ramps up and down and switches modes on it’s own?

My guess would be there is something shorting the driver circuits. Maybe a stray sliver of aluminum or something. You might try pulling the driver out and run a brush or compressed air over the tiny components.

I assume you checked to see if the driver was flat and that the notches line up, then make sure the retaining ring is tight.

I’ve never heard of a light acting like this.

I have seen erratic behavior on lights before, and it was almost always dirty threads. Maybe you could try cleaning the light, as just stated before.

No, it does not go to turbo. When holding the switch, it goes to different levels in steps, stays at the brightest. After that, it step-ramps down if i release the switch and hold it again. The driver is flat, however the notches do not align perfectly, so maybe there is a short between the case and the driver? !Imgur: The magic of the Internet! In order to pull out the driver, I assume I have to desolder the wires at the front, right?

No, it does not go to turbo. When holding the switch, it goes to different levels in steps, stays at the brightest. After that, it step-ramps down if i release the switch and hold it again. The driver is flat, however the notches do not align perfectly, so maybe there is a short between the case and the driver?

In order to pull out the driver, I assume I have to desolder the wires at the front, right?

I don’t think it’s dirty threads as it also happens when I directly connect the battery to the spring and case. I don’t see how the threads could be involved.

What your describing sounds like proper normal function. It ramps up when you hold the button, release and press again and it goes back down.

Are you confused that it goes in steps instead of the smooth ramp? To switch from stepped ramping to smooth ramping turn the light on and do 3 fast clicks.

Well, it turns on immediately when inserting the battery and tightening. And I can’t turn it off. It acts like a twisty.

I have pulled out the driver and cleaned it. Re-inserted it taking care of the notch. Same result :-(.

I am clueless. Somehow, the MCU must be working as it’s doing something when pressing the button. The button must also be working. It almost looks like (on of the) 7135 are permanently working so there might be a short somewhere?

My two cents

Try unscrewing the head and tail cap, screw in the tail cap nice & tight, insert battery, then screw in the head nice and tight. Or try the reverse of doing the head first, then tail. Of course, just be careful of the tail cap as the switch board and button will fall out (not secured in place at all).

I had a similar flaky operation before I did this. Now my FW3A is working great.