FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

Nice idea.

I wish there was a multi-sided one available, like I’ve got on my Nitecore EA4.

Do they come in different sizes?
Some of these on the battery tube might be good for the grip flippers :smiley:

I don’t know about different sizes, but they stretch easily though - they may well do different sizes, they certainly do different widths most seem to be 21x10mm. As for ‘anti roll’ shapes, again very likely with a bit of searching, they definitely do ones with lanyard holes on the side (would also stop rolling), I saw those whilst browsing earlier!
I have been googling - vape ring, vape sleeve, vape pouch, vape case …… :person_facepalming:
maybe we should have some custom printed ‘BLF’ ones….Neal! :sunglasses:
These look interesting -


It is counterintuitive to have “Click & Hold” and “Click - Hold” mean different things.

Hold means keeping doing the previous action.

These should all mean the same thing:
Click & Hold
Click - Hold
Click and Hold
Click then Hold

= click, do not release, keep holding

“Double Click &/-/and/then Hold” would mean click, release, click again very soon, keep holding.

edit: TK’s original chart isn’t exactly like this either. In it hold means click and hold but at least that’s obvious unlike this & - and then business :slight_smile:

You can buy 3x boards with just about any emitter already flowed and only need to solder the wires into place.

Even 219b?

Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it :+1:
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.

How’s this now?

Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.

It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)

Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.

Now 3 LH351D 5000K and the 10509 are waiting for the FW3A.

I hope they do not need another month to get the SST- 20 version ready to shipp!

… wow, a floody delight! That would be my first choice as well. Please follow up with us when everything is done.

I’m looking for highest possible cri, so yeah…

Are the Samsung emitters that seem to be in the running for the next best thing (dogfarts?), available on a triple mpcb?

In 4000K you can order it directly from Led4Power https://led4power.com/product/3x-samsung-lh351d-4000k-90cri-led-sphwhtl3da0gf4t0q6-20mm-3xp-20mm-dtp-copper-mcpcb/

For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D

huh ok, Thanks,
Guess I’m still waiting then

That’s a good price for this 3x LH351D MCPCB… but I’m wondering if there’s a similarly priced one available in the USA. Closest I could find was with MTN Electronics, but they’re $15 USD before shipping.

Is that a GT in your pocket?..

LED4Power’s shipping is almost half the time of most Chinese packages and his boards are REALLY nice. I had to take a little bit of a bur off the side of mine where the boards snap apart to make it fit in the FW3A

Does everything still fit ok with the additional MCPCB thickness?

Mine fits fine. I swapped the stock board for a Noctigon. Didn’t change the o-rings or anything else other than emitter swap and adding Lee minus green filter below the lens. The bezel still screws down fully. It was not necessary to lap the Noctigon.