Cool, thanks for the input, I was hoping someone would go over it
I’m just trying to make the chart more obvious as a few people are having difficulty with the UI functions, I found the original a little hard to grasp at first look.
Kaidomain has some 219B 5700K triples but I’m guessing you’re looking for warmer. In that case you’ll have to reflow.
It’s honestly easier than I ever though it would be. I just use a “helping hands” hobby stand to hold the MCPCB and hit the underside with a mini butane torch (the kind for doing heatshrink, etc.)
Solder paste is cheap, I would suggest leaded but you can just use regular solder if you want/need to just fine.
For highest possible CRI, you should wait for the FW3A with Luminus SST-20 that will have at least better red colors rendition than the Samsung LH351D, which has a CRI level comparable to Nichia 219C.
Nichia 219B > Nichia 219C
Luminus SST-20 > Samsung LH351D
That’s a good price for this 3x LH351D MCPCB… but I’m wondering if there’s a similarly priced one available in the USA. Closest I could find was with MTN Electronics, but they’re $15 USD before shipping.
LED4Power’s shipping is almost half the time of most Chinese packages and his boards are REALLY nice. I had to take a little bit of a bur off the side of mine where the boards snap apart to make it fit in the FW3A
Mine fits fine. I swapped the stock board for a Noctigon. Didn’t change the o-rings or anything else other than emitter swap and adding Lee minus green filter below the lens. The bezel still screws down fully. It was not necessary to lap the Noctigon.