FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

Luxeon V2’s in 5000k, my favorite emitter behind TIR optics.

I also found very poor thermal compound application on mine so I lightly sanded the bottom of the mcpcb and replaced the white crap with AS5.

How’s the beam compared to XP-L HI?



Just saw it in FB group

SST20 2700K/3000K/4000K on Noctigon

I just ordered a stick of Titanium off Flea-Bay to do the same thing… :+1:

Did you measure the tint on the Luxeon V. Sounds like this will look similar to 5A or 5D tint. How does output compare to xpl?

Slightly wider with a perfect white tint.

I don’t dislike the 3D HI’s, just that the Luxeon V2’s are my favorite led so I wanted to put some in my favorite light!

Nice…

I really like the V2’s as well.
Do you have any estimates on lumens and max Amps?

Sory to be a pest, which Archer?

Was it just the rubber boot?

About a 20% reduction in lumens (I have a tube style “sphere” but it isn’t calibrated from any known sources so I can only do direct comparison).

I’ll measure current when I find my meter, I recently moved my shop from the basement (winter) back to my garage (summer) and haven’t got all my gear set back up yet and don’t know where my clamp meter is ATM.

Cant find anything.

Thank you TrueRMS.

20% sounds good.

I’m also hoping it comes with a few Amps less draw.

Give it a look in Flashlight Fanatics

Emitter swaps and driver mods.

driver modded to 4x7135&FET+1

Green Secondary and Osram Square 3500k 96 CRI primary

Thanks… Have you tried the V2’s with a 10507 optic? I’m curious to see how they perform.

Since emitter and temperature choices were limited during the initial order I settled for the XP-L in 3D. I was originally leaning towards the LH351D in 4000K, however lately I find my temperature preferences shifting (no pun intended) towards the 4500-5000K range.

My 3D version unfortunately arrived with a fair amount of green tint, so I resorted to using some Lee Minus Green filter; –1/8 between the bezel glass and optic. It effectively reduced the green but it still didn’t feel quite right.

Ordinarily I would live with a change for a while to give it a chance but as there was a chance the FW3A might be used for lighting during my pending travel I wanted to get the FW3A right, so I decided to swap the emitters before leaving tomorrow.


Here are the result photos ‘submitted for your approval.’

Camera exposure settings were the same for all photos, white balance at 5000K. The tints appear a little exaggerated in the photos compared to how they look in person, neither the green nor the magenta are as strong as they appear but otherwise relatively accurate. (Apologies for the out-of-focus shots.)

FW3A OEM XP-L Hi in 3D (below; photo on the right is of can from the photo expanded)

FW3A XP-L Hi in 3D w/ Minus 1/8 Green (below)

FW3A LH351 5000K 90CRI (“DA0GF4RTS”) (below)

FW3A LH351 5000K w/ Minus 1/8 Green (below)

FW3A LH351 5000K w/ Minus 1/8 Green through 10507 Carclo (below)

The addition of the minus green filter to the XP-L alone, went a LONG ways towards improved tint. I probably should have stopped there but hey…

Swapping the emitter to LH351 resulted in a higher CRI light. In the minus-green treated XP-L can photo, green has been effectively removed but everything else is also tinted slightly pink. Whereas in the higher CRI LH351 can photo the green tint is removed without adding pink tint to the other colors (see for example the color difference with the white wording or noodles between those two photos.)

Re-aplying the minus green filter to the LH351 actually tinted towards magenta slightly but I personally liked the results.

The original Carclo 10511 optic supplied with the light provides a very smooth hot-spot to spill transition, the result is pleasant soft illumination.

Changing to a 10507 (narrow, clear/no frost) resulted in a more defined transition, creating an almost spotlight effect, particularly with the LH351D which has a tendency to also spotlight when used with reflectors. Not an objectionable beam just different. For my upcoming travel outdoors where I may not want to inadvertantly shine at others, I actually prefer the defined hotspot. The beauty of the FW3A is the ease with which I can always change back.

Adding my thanks to those of others to the FW3A team for bringing us this light.

Enjoy.


Edited to correct 10511 Optic

When do you see this green? I’m not seeing it in my 3D.

pc_light, I really appreciate your photos and your commentary—thanks for sharing this. I like your final (for now?) configuration.

Same.

It’s pretty hard to see unless you compare it side by side with a light that is much closer or under the BBL (and against a white wall). Also, depending on camera settings, it can show up more or less too.

Honestly, if you don’t notice it, be happy and don’t worry about it. If you want to get picky do it when the stakes are higher (90CRI emitters)