maybe it’s as simple as they make 1000 of each… Can you predict just how many extra clips you’d need or bunny buttons? inventorying all that etc etc?
Manufacturing and deciding on what spares or extras to make can be complicated. Leftover parts or accessories cut into the profits and those can be slim enough. They are in the business of selling ready to use lights.
And no need to use the ‘retarded’ word when stating your opinion, thanks. I never gave the slot or hole a second thought.
It’s called bulk purchasing power. It’s always better to buy more of something if you can justify it, sell it, or use it.
If you can buy 2000 pcs of something vs 1000 pcs of something, it may lower the cost as much by a factor of 2 (50% or 1/2).
That’s my experience with ordering custom springs anyway.
Thanks, I was going in through the tailcap because apparently Im a du-mas and cant read instructions, inserted the battery from the front and everything works.
Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.
So is WW, NW or CW better?
Which one is better?
5000k 95CRI SST-20.
So NW obviously for most uses, and warm white for outdoor lights and lamp posts.
If only there was a 5000k 95CRI SST-20 though…
That would make things so much easier. better.
sb56637:Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.
So is WW, NW or CW better?
Good one Mr. Scott!! :+1:
I predict that is one “controversy” that will never be solved…… :innocent:
Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?
Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. :+1:
Make sure the threads are clean too
what does one use to clean the threads? Alcohol? How about Hydrogen Peroxide? Or WD 40? Any of these? Then Super Lube Synthetic Grease afterwards? Thanks!
A simple cleaning rag.
Yeah… like BSM said, a rag.
Put the rag in your open hand, grasp the threads, and give it a twist. Clean threads.
Inside threads… use rag over finger tip.
Super Lube is great.
Hello again. General status update: (is also in the OP)
Current status (2019-05-19): Neal reports that all orders have shipped, except for a couple orders with address problems. He’s contacting people individually about that. There is no news about SST-20 yet, but Neal will make sure people know about it when it’s ready.
- TK
Interesting, mine said that mine was “on the way” like a 5 days ago but the tracking number draws a blank on every site that I try it on…
Anyone else experiencing this?
Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.
Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers
Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers
1A - 3D - 7A …
Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.
I already got my NW, but I too am waiting for the SST-20…
Tejasandre:I noticed there’s a slight delay after the switch is depressed until the light turns off. turning on the light does not have the same delay.
saypat:… indeed there is, very observant. I’d like a quicker off.
As JasonWW said, there are tradeoffs. It can respond at button press, button release, or after a timeout. Each one has benefits and drawbacks.
- Press-off: Nobody really uses this; it’s basically incompatible with ramping.
- Release-off: Turns off faster, but also causes the light to go dark for a moment when doing multi-click actions: a double click for turbo, click-release-hold to ramp down, triple click to change ramp styles, or quad click to access config mode.
- Timeout-off: Turns off a bit slower, but doesn’t have any interruptions during actions which require more than one click.
People have some disagreements about the same thing while turning the light on, too. Press-on, release-on, and timeout-on are all used in different lights, for different reasons.
I’ve been meaning to add a compile-time option to choose which style to use, but still haven’t yet.
Please add this compile-time option. I prefer undelayed release-off. Thank you.
Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped…double tap to turbo…
Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend
Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped…double tap to turbo…
Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend
There should be a “blink” in the middle of the ramp. That’s the light swapping from the single channel to the multi. It stops at the top of the regulated channels and double-click engages the FET. Try it — ramp until it stops, then double-click and see if it doesn’t get brighter. I’d bet its working properly you just didn’t notice the “blip” in the ramp earlier.
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.
Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp