Thanks, I was going in through the tailcap because apparently Im a du-mas and cant read instructions, inserted the battery from the front and everything works.
Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.
So is WW, NW or CW better?
Which one is better?
5000k 95CRI SST-20.
So NW obviously for most uses, and warm white for outdoor lights and lamp posts.
If only there was a 5000k 95CRI SST-20 though…
That would make things so much easier. better.
sb56637:Hi, I am indeed monitoring this thread. Please limit this topic to polite discussions about the FW3A, and please strictly avoid anything and everything political and/or controversial.
So is WW, NW or CW better?
Good one Mr. Scott!! :+1:
I predict that is one “controversy” that will never be solved…… :innocent:
Ok so I got my light 2 weeks ago and tried it with a button top 30q. didnt turn on. So I thought it needed a flat top, so I ordered some VTC6s and flat top 30Qs and the light still wont turn on. Is there some sort of protection mode it could have tripped that I need to reset or do I have a defective light?
Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. :+1:
Make sure the threads are clean too
what does one use to clean the threads? Alcohol? How about Hydrogen Peroxide? Or WD 40? Any of these? Then Super Lube Synthetic Grease afterwards? Thanks!
A simple cleaning rag.
Yeah… like BSM said, a rag.
Put the rag in your open hand, grasp the threads, and give it a twist. Clean threads.
Inside threads… use rag over finger tip.
Super Lube is great.
Hello again. General status update: (is also in the OP)
Current status (2019-05-19): Neal reports that all orders have shipped, except for a couple orders with address problems. He’s contacting people individually about that. There is no news about SST-20 yet, but Neal will make sure people know about it when it’s ready.
- TK
Interesting, mine said that mine was “on the way” like a 5 days ago but the tracking number draws a blank on every site that I try it on…
Anyone else experiencing this?
Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.
Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers
Could someone please link me to a colour comparison between the 3 emitters.
Cheers
1A - 3D - 7A …
Still no sign of the SST-20 version? It is almost a month now.
I already got my NW, but I too am waiting for the SST-20…
Tejasandre:I noticed there’s a slight delay after the switch is depressed until the light turns off. turning on the light does not have the same delay.
saypat:… indeed there is, very observant. I’d like a quicker off.
As JasonWW said, there are tradeoffs. It can respond at button press, button release, or after a timeout. Each one has benefits and drawbacks.
- Press-off: Nobody really uses this; it’s basically incompatible with ramping.
- Release-off: Turns off faster, but also causes the light to go dark for a moment when doing multi-click actions: a double click for turbo, click-release-hold to ramp down, triple click to change ramp styles, or quad click to access config mode.
- Timeout-off: Turns off a bit slower, but doesn’t have any interruptions during actions which require more than one click.
People have some disagreements about the same thing while turning the light on, too. Press-on, release-on, and timeout-on are all used in different lights, for different reasons.
I’ve been meaning to add a compile-time option to choose which style to use, but still haven’t yet.
Please add this compile-time option. I prefer undelayed release-off. Thank you.
Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped…double tap to turbo…
Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend
Is there a factory reset? When I got the light, it ramped to point and stopped…double tap to turbo…
Now it ramps to a blink, and continues on to turbo… It’s been out of my hands for the weekend
There should be a “blink” in the middle of the ramp. That’s the light swapping from the single channel to the multi. It stops at the top of the regulated channels and double-click engages the FET. Try it — ramp until it stops, then double-click and see if it doesn’t get brighter. I’d bet its working properly you just didn’t notice the “blip” in the ramp earlier.
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.
Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp
Nope…. When I first got it,it ramped to a point and stopped.no blink.double for turbo.
Now I tried it like you said, and after it ramped through the blink, and hit a ceiling, double click did nothing.
Fixed the steps/ramp
Cell fully charged? Maybe it can’t supply the amperage needed for turbo?
I keep asking because the behavior you describe isn’t even programmable. Its not something you can reset (as far as I know). You’re describing a full-on malfunction. Which is possible, but not easily fixable if its happened.
Charger says 77%
illuminos:Just got the light yesterday but am running into an issue. The light switches to moon/low mode after a few seconds of coming on whether it is just on or while I’m ramping. It doesn’t appear to respond consistently to multiple clicks either.
That sounds like it’s in muggle mode with a bad temperature calibration. To fix it, exit muggle mode (6 clicks) and then calibrate the sensor as described in the FAQ threads.
Or perhaps it just has a low battery and the low-voltage protection activated. I can’t really say which it is, from this description.
That is exactly what it was. I guess first thing to do besides checking the retaining ring is to reset the temp calibration on these lights.