It was within Germany and he sent me the whole light
The driver was fine, just the new thermal enhance design does not allow a bad soldering job on the LED+ terminal
here clearly can be seen that the wire solder blob also touches the ground viases that are about 0.75-1mm next to the pad, the buck chip detects short and stops output
best is to solder the wire straight up or 180° rotated pointing to the capacitor so the ground plane is clearly visible and no short risk
I know that coil characteristics degrades while heat increase so there must have some addition over threshold, but how about Coilcraft XAL7030 series? Are those still to weak?
You have a driver with 4 pads that make contact with each battery separately. Then you permanently fix the battery tube into place so the battery ends line up with the driver pads. Then you modify the pcb in the tail cap. This will supply 12 volts to the driver, but you have to load the batteries through the tail by removing the PCB each time. It’s a pain to swap batteries, but it works.
How is that even possible without carriers? Lexel how did you get that to work?
[/quote]
You have a driver with 4 pads that make contact with each battery separately. Then you permanently fix the battery tube into place so the battery ends line up with the driver pads. Then you modify the pcb in the tail cap. This will supply 12 volts to the driver, but you have to load the batteries through the tail by removing the PCB each time. It’s a pain to swap batteries, but it works.
[/quote]
you can also build a rotating tail board with 2 pins that uses a bolt to hold to the tail cap
I’d prefer a boost driver for single 18650. I’m running one in C8 with single 18650, but the size isn’t right (22mm vs 20mm) and the mode switching doesn’t work properly after sanding down.
So I just want to run C8 with some 20mm proper.
I’d like to order a buck driver to replace the stock one in my MF04S, with Berylliumbronze springs and gold plated button soldered and Anduril flashed onto it, shipped to UK please.