Yes, that generation had fantastic tints. I still have a 80CRI 3500K version in my copper Maratac AA and that has the nice rosy tint too. But the efficiency is not great and current handling is very limited, so if we finally manage to get good SST-20 tints that will be my current choice.
So would anyone else like them to offer a stainless bezel for this? I would love one just to protect it from my keys in my pocket!
I mean you already know the answer to that. This forum loves stainless bezels. However, I don’t see it happening for this light.
You’re probably better off finding some kind of plastic cap of the right diameter and affix it to the front, to protect the anodized bezel edge from getting chipped by metal objects in your pocket.
Isn’t the optic still behind a glass lens?
I think as long as this doesn’t make the optic shorter somehow, it should be just as waterproof as before (if you put all the gaskets/o-rings/etc back in during reassembly).
No…. the distance remains the same since the optic sits on the shoulder of the Legs in the holes of the MCPCB
That is what I thought.
I would be silly to make the light leaky just to add some bling. I’m waiting on a couple of slow boats so I can do this to mine. Thank you for your detailed post about your method. I’ll be referencing it when I get my materials in.
Did you use any glue for yours or is the fit tight enough to not worry about it?
If you did glue them, did you use UV activated optical adhesive, super glue, or some other fancy stuff?
Don’t glue them. No reason to permanently put $20 worth of trits in a $1.50 optic that can get scratched or dirty. It has nowhere to go so just make sure they dont fall out when you assemble/disassemble the light and you are good. The glass lens will keep everything in place.
edit; just to be clear the hole in the bottom legs is not wide enough for the trit to fall through it can only come in/out via the top.
NO glue. The holes are a tiny bit oversize .003”-.004” so they tap in and tap out, the lens holds them in well enough, makes it easy to change/mix colors….
Thank you for the tip. It did look as though the glass would retain them well enough, and I agree with your sentiments about the wisdom of permanently sealing them in there. I guess I’ll need to ready another excuse for that UV S2 I have coming…
Perfect. This sounds like the best way to do it.
Oh… so you drilled in from the TOP, not bottom? I guess that makes sense. Good point about not using adhesive, given how everything is held together when the optic is locked into place.
I made a blue GITD gasket, the mix with the green tap inside the bezel is beautiful IMO
I got mine from this thread, very professionally done: WTS: DRILLED OPTICS - 10507 / 10508 / 10509 / 10511
Kawi has a warehouse full of tools and wanted to save some money 
@JaredM, if you make SS bezels lengthened for reflectors and can find a suitable reflector, I’ll buy one. Those are the two biggest changes I’d like to see in this light. DM me if you need a hand with the CAD.
Even grippier FW3A. Now with 2 pieces of Talon grip tape:
I don’t even have my light yet but I obviously need to source some talon tape(I have used it on my pistols but didn’t know that it came in a roll) some GITD powder and tape and possibly some trit vials… 
No doubt that a native BBL SST20 would be a great improvement to these classics. I much prefer native due to the fact that what ever else I decide to do with the light the filter wont affect it
I wonder if that grip tape could be used on the hottest part as a thermal insulator…
huh? why? Do you want to keep the heat in??