The earlier Apple iPods were build very solid, though scratch prone. The soft glossy plexiglass fronts and highly polished steel backs were just suckers for scratches. Definitely need a protector on the front and a protector case for the back. Thankfully later on, the newer designs lent themselves for tempered glass protectors ā Iāve got one on my 7th and you canāt tell itās there.
Iām also not a fan of Appleās iTunes ecosystemāwished they made it optional, so you could transfer files directly. But they did that for copyright protection purposesā¦ which ended up penalizing the convenience of those people playing by the rules (e.g. I ripped my own purchased CDās to listen to the music on my MP3 player).
Btw, while Apple never put in a dedicated LED for illumination, the iPod screens are so bright! You can really use them like flashlights.
Would you believe that despite having no screen protector for 10 years, there isnāt a single scratch on the front of my iPod? The back has all kinds of little marks though, presumably from when I put it down on the table.
Yep, same here. I just ordered my second FW3A, with 219C leds that after some checking out will be replaced by 2700K SST-20 leds, and hopefully I can McGyver some red aux leds in there as well.
The price after discount was $31.68, close enough to the announced 30 dollar for me.
I also ordered the 219C version. It is close enough to the 30$ and the leds get changed anyways. But i had no use for the XP-L leds.
The 219C will find a new home in a different light.
There should be a new batch of drivers soon, and Iām working on firmware updates. So far Iāve got the followingā¦
Fixed the bug maukka found ā hold-from-off then release-and-hold in stepped ramp wouldnāt work until it had been on for a full second.
Made candle mode slightly more calm but also able to burn a bit brighter sometimes.
Beacon mode duty cycle is 100ms now instead of 500ms.
Made muggle mode do smaller thermal adjustments.
Rewrote most of the thermal regulation code. It should significantly improve pretty much anything related to temperature, except for the lack of factory calibration. (still in progress, running tests right now) It takes a while since I need to test basically every supported light, but the ones Iāve tested so far have all waited a sane amount of time to heat up, dropped quickly to a sustainable level, and then just ā¦ stayed there. None of this oscillation nonsense from earlier versions, and so far it has managed to step down at a point which is neither too early nor too late.
Also planning to do some other misc updates, as many as I can squeeze in before the deadline. Not sure which other tasks will get done in time. The top tasks are making āholdā auto-reverse in strobe modes, making momentary do the last-used mode instead of just the last-used brightness (so, momentary strobes), and generally making muggle mode a little nicer. Also debating whether to add ten-clicks-from-off as a shortut to thermal config mode. But I wouldnāt count on any of these things.
Nice, Iāll probably end up picking up another FW3A when the new driver and LED versions are in circulation. As always, thanks for all the hard work TK!
Sounds good.
Have you thought about/ would it be possible to incorporate a configuration lock for ramp config, ie the settings for mode numbers, max ceiling & floor canāt be changed unless a code is entered like the H17F or preferably like the LD4Power drivers?
Iāve slipped into ramp config a couple of times & accidently changed settings.
Just a thought.
Yes. Itās probably caused by something like that, something physically out of place inside the light. I found similar metal shavings inside an earlier prototype, and sent Lumintop a bug report about it.
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