Nice, I’ll probably end up picking up another FW3A when the new driver and LED versions are in circulation. As always, thanks for all the hard work TK!
Sounds good.
Have you thought about/ would it be possible to incorporate a configuration lock for ramp config, ie the settings for mode numbers, max ceiling & floor can’t be changed unless a code is entered like the H17F or preferably like the LD4Power drivers?
I’ve slipped into ramp config a couple of times & accidently changed settings.
Just a thought.
Yes. It’s probably caused by something like that, something physically out of place inside the light. I found similar metal shavings inside an earlier prototype, and sent Lumintop a bug report about it.
I’m facing the same issue; very little use for the light for the next 3 or so months. Apart from that and the fact the light seems too nice to carry and get scratched up, everything’s looking good.
Thank you team, mfg, everyone. The FW3A is even cooler than expected - in warm white of course.
Oh, the threads on mine were apparently dirty and loose on arrival causing the symptoms described by many others. Cleaning and reassembly fixed that.
Let me correct you here. The inner tube does not carry any led power. It only carries the very tiny switch signal.
The emitter gets current through the outer tube when the head and tail are somewhat threaded together. This is why you see the leds blink as you are threading them together.
It takes the precise tightening of the tail first, then the head, for the inner tube to make good contact and allow the switch to work.
The only in between state I can think of is the inner tube not making good contact which means the switch won’t work.