I eagerly await momentary candle mode.
iamlucky13
May 22, 2019, 10:19pm
11033
Awesome! Thanks for keeping up the good work.
CRX:
Have you thought about/ would it be possible to incorporate a configuration lock for ramp config, ie the settings for mode numbers, max ceiling & floor can’t be changed unless a code is entered like the H17F or preferably like the LD4Power drivers?
Nope, I don’t have any plans for that. It’s easy to access, but that’s on purpose.
raccoon
May 22, 2019, 10:54pm
11035
Wow, the FW3A heats up really fast on turbo...
I won't be using that anymore!
I'll test out the flashlight more when it gets dark.
Overall, I'm really impressed.
BlueSwordM
May 22, 2019, 11:58pm
11037
Wait, that doesn’t look like machined copper.
That looks like electroplated copper.
It’s easy to see since the knurling has some black imperfections, meaning copper didn’t deposit well on the light.
Tejasandre
May 23, 2019, 12:15am
11039
Did we get any more info from @neil on the 219 cri?
BlueSwordM
May 23, 2019, 12:15am
11040
Can copper get that dirty?
I though it only gets oxidized/patinad.
I obviously got too excited for my own hype.
Firelight2
May 23, 2019, 12:18am
11041
I assume if you take your copper light and roll it around in some mud you can get it quite dirty. :smiling_imp:
Keisari
May 23, 2019, 12:59am
11042
I’m facing the same issue; very little use for the light for the next 3 or so months. Apart from that and the fact the light seems too nice to carry and get scratched up, everything’s looking good.
Thank you team, mfg, everyone. The FW3A is even cooler than expected - in warm white of course.
Oh, the threads on mine were apparently dirty and loose on arrival causing the symptoms described by many others. Cleaning and reassembly fixed that.
JasonWW
May 23, 2019, 1:51am
11043
BlueSwordM:
Wait, that doesn’t look like machined copper.
That looks like electroplated copper. :heart_eyes:
It’s easy to see since the knurling has some black imperfections, meaning copper didn’t deposit well on the light.
As CRX and Teacher said, it’s probably been taken apart and baked. This changes the gray to orange.
It does not look like a different metal construction .
JasonWW
May 23, 2019, 2:02am
11045
xevious:
The issue was head tightness. Once I applied a little more torque to the head, it stopped doing that. What’s the physical dynamic at hand when this happens? As I understand it, with the inner tube not completely seated the emitter shouldn’t have current. So sufficient tightening makes for a solid connection and the light functions. Is there some “in between” state possible, where the inner tube has contact, but not fully, and thus there’s some kind of weak voltage issue?
Let me correct you here. The inner tube does not carry any led power. It only carries the very tiny switch signal.
The emitter gets current through the outer tube when the head and tail are somewhat threaded together. This is why you see the leds blink as you are threading them together.
It takes the precise tightening of the tail first, then the head, for the inner tube to make good contact and allow the switch to work.
The only in between state I can think of is the inner tube not making good contact which means the switch won’t work.
CRX
May 23, 2019, 2:52am
11046
Ok, I just thought that once these levels were set up that people wouldn’t be changing them very frequently.
mitsuki08
May 23, 2019, 3:07am
11047
ToyKeeper:
Just a quick update…
There should be a new batch of drivers soon, and I’m working on firmware updates. So far I’ve got the following…
Fixed the bug maukka found — hold-from-off then release-and-hold in stepped ramp wouldn’t work until it had been on for a full second.
Made candle mode slightly more calm but also able to burn a bit brighter sometimes.
Beacon mode duty cycle is 100ms now instead of 500ms.
Made muggle mode do smaller thermal adjustments.
Rewrote most of the thermal regulation code. It should significantly improve pretty much anything related to temperature, except for the lack of factory calibration. (still in progress, running tests right now) It takes a while since I need to test basically every supported light, but the ones I’ve tested so far have all waited a sane amount of time to heat up, dropped quickly to a sustainable level, and then just … stayed there. None of this oscillation nonsense from earlier versions, and so far it has managed to step down at a point which is neither too early nor too late.
Also planning to do some other misc updates, as many as I can squeeze in before the deadline. Not sure which other tasks will get done in time. The top tasks are making “hold” auto-reverse in strobe modes, making momentary do the last-used mode instead of just the last-used brightness (so, momentary strobes), and generally making muggle mode a little nicer. Also debating whether to add ten-clicks-from-off as a shortut to thermal config mode. But I wouldn’t count on any of these things.
The main thing is better thermal regulation.
Is it possible to know when to order to get the updated firmware? Like a specific date where all FW3A’s shipped have this firmware? Thanks for all of your hard work updating it TK!
It's now mostly dark here.
I was afraid that 7A would be too warm, but it's fine.
I like warm tints.
Superb flashlight!
Figgy
May 23, 2019, 3:52am
11049
need this light with a 18350 pipe option too O_O
The light is so short with an 18650, that my hand barely covers it!
It wouldn't fit in my hand if it were any smaller.
Figgy
May 23, 2019, 3:59am
11051
[quote=raccoon city]
Figgy:
The light is so short with an 18650, that my hand barely covers it!
It wouldn’t fit in my hand if it were any smaller.
meh at least with the 18350 will be a lot easier to have it as a keychain light
… 
and when someone needs light boom blind the whole area for a few seconds lol