Anyone play around with the Group 2 - Strobe mode.
I can only go into the strobe mode for 1 time only after i received this light. I cycle from candle > bike flasher > party strobe > tactical strobe > lightning storm > off.
Problem : after that i click, click, hold it just respond by dim flash once and turn off by itself.
reinsert the battery still the same problem. dim flash once and turn off by itself.
Order with battery, assuming the battery arrived with partial charge. Will try another battery when I get home.
Removed tape from negative side of battery and reinserted.
When screwing on the head the light blinks twice, after first blink there is about a full rotation and it blinks again. At this point it is fully closed with no gap.
Retaining ring seems to be in place, will not budge with pliers either direction.
Tail cap is screwed tight no gap. Button click feels good.
Symptoms:
Light doesn’t turn on.
Click tail button does nothing.
Hold tail button for 3 or more seconds, light blinks upon release.
Haven’t seen these symptoms posted yet. Any ideas? Besides verify battery.
The only other thing ‘I’ can think of is…. take off the head & look at the end of the black inner tube. It should be clean & shiny with no anodization. Give that end a good wipe with a rag, put the head back on & try it.
RFI? Set an AM radio to the noise between stations and walk around your house listening for noise sources, many LED and CFL light bulbs are great producers of Radio Frequency Interference. You may have a “buzz” signal from something nearby. And you may also pick up a burst of electronic noise when a flashlight driver operates, if it’s not well designed to avoid creating RFI.
Electronic waves are simiar to ocean waves in that several waves can combine to create a “rogue wave” or a strong electronic signal spike momentarily.
I’ve noticed fairly often that using a ham or GMRS/FRS “walkie talkie” radio triggers various motion sensor lights around the house, and I once had a neighbor’s car alarm trigger just as I walked past it while using the radio.
Not surprised it didn’t work. But all’s well that ends well. You’ve now got a super clean, checked out, & working FW3A out of the deal.
All for the price of charging the battery…. . :+1:
FWIW, the light should work until the battery gets down to 2.9V or so, because that’s where LVP activates. It technically should still light up even as low as 2.6V, but it’ll shut itself off pretty quickly to avoid hurting the battery.
Brightness gets lower and lower as the voltage drops, in a pattern which should almost exactly match the Vf curve of the emitters being used. Everything used in the FW3A should light up at least a little at 2.9V though.
Good point. Quite possibly the correct answer. Either the battery was not really at 3.2 V, it was much lower; or during the multiple takedowns he inadvertently ’fixed’ whatever was not tight or lined up properly.
Maybe a combination of the battery and the 1x7135 channel chip being bad?
With a depleted battery the light should turn on in low. I assume if the battery is low enough only the 1x7135 channel is activating. If that 7135 chip is not functioning, perhaps you end up with a situation where the light stops working at slightly higher voltage than it should.