anyone tried to replace the leds with xplhi? could it be the same brightness as emisar d4?
Yes and no. The driver itself is the same design in both lights, I think the D4 just uses a better FET so it is slightly lower resistance.
The real reason the S43 has lower output is the optic is a fair amount less efficient then the D4, so not as many lumens make it out the front of the light.
Hm… I think about the real visible difference… Texas, do you think it would bé a big difference or just… Cos 500 lumens plus mínus… Ya know so many y People bought the emisar d4 that its still my nightmare. But ot not to buy, but i love the USB option… A little less lumens Sister of emisar would not kill mé…
I don’t have a D4 to test but I think others have tested both and noted how the S43 seems to have lower numbers. Those lower numbers are mostly caused by the optic. Most would not notice the difference unless they were side by side.
I keep trying to tell them to switch to using the carlco optics and they will gain free lumens and a better beam but not getting much traction.
I see that some have changed the 219C to 351D. How did you do that? I tried it, but it turned out that the silicone dome 351D is larger in diameter than the hole in the optics. I put a 351D with standard optics and twisted the bezel. the joy of good light was not long. When removing the optics, the silicone dome of the two 351D came off.
Also, opens up easy flexibility for customization of beam pattern. Floody, focused, narrow, wide, elliptical… I just started getting into this with an FW3A. Quite sad to hear that the S43 optic is not only proprietary but nearly 25% inefficient. That’s seriously disappointing. Anyway, based on Carclo quad optic designs, they’d have to use a different MCPCB and LED spacing.
Yeah, I have tried to get them to switch to Carclo optics for a long time now but the Boss just won’t do it for some reason. Sad since that is basically the only weak point to the light.
Yeah, it’s tempting to install a replacement sapphire glass without the optic and use it as a mule.
I recently received the copper version, the S43S with Nichia 219c emitters. I really like it. Having read most of this thread with people complaing how ugly this light was, I was pleastly surprised that it didn’t look bad at all. In fact, it’s hard to understand why people complained about the S43’s plain battery tube, when they didn’t complain about the D4’s BTW, I think they the too lights look strikingly similar.
My only problem with my light has been that I can’t seem to get it to work with the short tube and a KeepPower 1200 mah 18350 cell. In spite of cleaning all the contacts, the light intermittantly falsely reports a low voltage in the cell and won’t put out enough output and doesn’t go into turbo. Then if I play around with tightening the head or tail cap, it works correctly for a while. I suspect these cells aren’t compatible,since the light works perfectly with a VC6 18650. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is there 18350 cell that works well with this light? Perhaps the LightPower ells can’t deliver enough amps?
I might be mistaken but it might be that you have to flip the head and tail switch. It could be the anodizing?
Btw, I have the s43s and I also purchased the short tube, mine has not exhibited that issue, yet.
I assume you mean that I should switch the head and tail ends of the battery tube around, which I did do. Which 18350 cell did you use that worked well for you? Thanks!
Try different 18350. Keeppower is a little long.
I have an efest 18350, the purple v2 700mah
Thanks for the suggestion. I just noticed some irregular anodizing on the rim edge of the head end of the 18350 tube. Could this be causing my problem? If so, what would be the best way to get rid of this? I tried steel wool without success.
which one please is it the carclo optic? any link? i cant believe it can be really visible difference……but each lumen meand a higher quality of my life:)))))))))) thanks
It’s essential that the ends of the battery tube be clean and raw aluminum. Since the threads are fully anodized you have to fully screw the tube into the head and the tail to the tube until they bottom out. The battery tube has different length threads on each end so it only works in one direction. Assuming this is all okay, then you are limited by battery length. A too long battery will not let you thread both ends all the way down.
IIRC, certain button top 18350 cells are too long and won’t let you fully screw on the ends. Is your Keeppower a button top or flat top, protected or not?
I just gently sanded the head end of the 18350 battery tube to remove the traces of anodizing that I found there. Now my light works great, but only when the end cap or head are tightened just right. If either are tightened too much, the light works,but doesn’t ramp down to low. Instead, it ramps all the down to no output and turns off. From off, it won’t then go into instant moon or turbo. What is strange is that although I can get the light to work perfectly with one of my KeepPower 18350 cells, I can’t get it to work right with another identical cell,no matter how the head and tail cap are tightened. (Both cells are flat tops and unprotected.) So far now, until I can buy another brand of cell to try that might not be so finicky, I will just leave in place the one cell that works and take advantage of the internal charging ability of this light to recharge it.
After filing away the anodizing, the light worked better but would flicker if the head and tail cap weren’t tightened just right. I had to untighten one or the other for the flashlight to work correctly. If the head or tail were a bit too snug, the light misbehaved
Taking your suggestion about my batteries perhaps being too long, I then probably did a No-No, but it worked. I gave the negative end of the battery a light hit with a hammer and the flat end of small bolt, in order create a slight dent in that end of the cell. Now, the S43S with that effectively shortened 18350 cell works perfectly, even with the head and tail fully tightened. I didn’t damage the wrapper on the cell. So,I am hoping it is safe to use with the dented negative terminal.
What do you think?
Perhaps,without wanting to shorten the 18350 tube, I did, when I unintentionaly removed more than anodizing on end of the tube. Therefore, this flat unprotected cell may have been the right length to begin with, had the tube not been shortened. (I guess I won’t know unless I can get another tube.)
Hmmm, it’s always risky denting a battery. It might have been better to take some diagonal cutters and trim one of the springs a bit shorter.
If you have the S43, then you have single springs on both ends. When the springs are fully compressed you get “coil bind” and it becomes solid. Clipping one or two coils and bending the end so it doesn’t scratch should give you an extra millimeter or two.
I’m surprised your running into this problem with unprotected flat tops. I guess some brands 18350 are noticable longer than others.