Agro does have my springs, and the small one would work very well for the job in this case as you said
The only problem is that the small spring is a bit tall in this case, although it shouldn’t be a problem since it can compress a lot.
It’s a potent spring, but since it’s wire diameter/diameter ratio is very high, it is very stiff, and requires a lot of force to compress, meaning there is more room for plastic deformation, which is why I designed them at 11mm height.
If you could find a way to fit dual springs in there, then that would be extremely potent, but perhaps a bit overkill. And it wouldn’t fit anyway
Oh, I thought I saw that your “small” spring was only 8mm height. If it is 11m height, then he could probably find a way to make that work, even if it means cutting off a coil or two to make it shorter.
Yeah, just bypass it. Use a nice 22 gauge silicone insulated wire. Solder one end of the wire to the PCB under the base of the spring, and the other end with a brass button to the top of the spring.
Yeah, I was looking for the best bypass technique. Twisting the wire around the spring like TA recommends won’t work; there’s no space for it. Inside…I’ll try.
I struggle to find a good brass button source. What is your favorite method of converting flat top batteries to button top? shows a few sources, but they have thick buttons. Aside from the expensive Led4Power button.
Suggestion?
I did more work on my B158B over the last few days.
It’s almost working, which already makes it my most successful mod so far.
I made it a twisty. As soon as I screw the tailcap in, it turns on regardless of what I do with the switch.
It means there’s a short in the switch, right?
OK, while I was removing the old switch I lifted one of the pads. I soldered the new switch there anyway, hoping it would work.
Is that the most probable source of a short?
Is it fixable or should I get a new switch board (from where?)?
Hmm, I’m not sure how that would have shorted it, but it sounds like it. Take it apart and put it back together? If that doesn’t do it, show us some pics?
The problem seems to be a short between the cell and the switch retaining ring. I disassembled and reassembled the tail twice, on some battery insertions it happens on some it doesn’t.
Did you happen to perform a spring bypass on it? I don’t see too many potential failure points, but I could see metal at the bottom of that spring perhaps reaching out too far and getting under the retaining “ring”.
For reference, here’s a pic of one of my B158’s, though this one has an illuminated tailcap board with it.
stupid question, but the cell wrapper isn’t torn, is it? the inside of the tube is anodized IIRC, so it shouldn’t really be shorting there but it’s possible
I posted this in the BLF deal thread as well. I bought this one in RED back in Jan 2019 from this seller for $25.52 at the time. Worth it for just the host.
