Q8 modding

Nice clip!

Love the clip jyb. Made me smile. It’s also a good anti roll feature. Nice work.

The end of the clip where it screws to the light is firmly butted against the raised fin in front of the flat spot, so it has something to kinda brace against.

Ok, so I ordered replacement copper/brass round top screws, as well as some wire, and copper caps to use for spring bypass, I was curious… so any of you think it would be an issue to use a little of this: Loctite 466863 C5A Paste Anti-Seize Lubricant on the copper screws. It is a copper based anti-seize that should help with power transfer through the threads (at least it wont hurt) and should prevent stripping the screws if they ever need to be removed.

What do you guys think?

Is this the same stuff? It would help if you included a link:

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-466863-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B002A64RLA

I have to buy some of this after reading this Amazon review of it :


4.0 out of 5 stars Lubricant, I like the way that sounds.

September 26, 2018

Verified Purchase
I used like a boogers worth, and it is slicker than snot so that should be enough. Just not sure what I'm going to put the rest on? Think I'll leave it in the Will for the grandkids.

It all sound real good, though I have no experience with it. It doesn't say it's conductive - that would be important to me, depending on what screws it goes on. Thermally, it's probably excellent.

Per Loctite is has “good electrical and thermal conductivity”.

Typical Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections.

I am not sure what “good” is - but I would imagine that it most likely wouldn’t cause any issues.

Today i received my first ever Q8. The screws are very nice at first glance. The thing i did to the light after i got assured that it works, was that i sanded the tube a little to align the tube and the head correctly. The misalignment felt very bad when holding the light. So far i played with the light for an hour and already love the Narsil fw :slight_smile: More to come probably…

Right, got a Q8 from the Reddit buy/sell thread, and the head appears to be loctite’d on. Annoying. Tried to 3D print that tool yesterday but it went horrible awry, so I soaked the head in water after it boiled in the jug, still no movement. Next step is to get a smaller strap wrench that fits, even though there’s all of 3mm bezel to grab onto.

Annoying.

Positive note, got Anduril on it now.

Not exactly a mod of the light, but a simple work-around for several potential problems, especially if you are thinking of passing on your Q8 to a less-experienced user. Wrap a couple of layers of quality plastic tape (or a small section of additional shrink wrap) around a portion of the upper third of the cells. The advantages:

1. Prevents the battery tube from cutting into the cell wrap, as happens in some cases;
2. Makes a clear visual reference for cell orientation, particularly if a strong contrast colour is used;
3. Holds the cells a little more inward, so there is a reduced chance the positive terminal will make contact with a driver screw.

(The last one seems to be only a theoretical problem, since I haven’t seen any reports of it happening despite some concerns expressed in this thread.)

I just got this: https://led4power.com/product/4x-luxeon-v-4000k-5700k-70cri-led-on-38mm-blf-q8-copper-dtp-direct-thermal-path-mcpcb/ and just got done installing it. Wow! I'm sold on Luxeon V's. I went all the way and cemented the board in place with Arctic silver epoxy. Gonna see how it goes... I forgot to add a washer to the reflector screw but I'm not tearing it down now. I figure the reflector will hold it in.

Thing is, it is insanely, unbelievably bright and gets hot within 15-20 seconds in turbo and I'm afraid of cooking the emitters. No spring bypass and I'm using 30q's. I've never seen anything like it! Makes my Meteors look pedestrian.

Just to check, should I use lower drain cells for safety or should I be all right? I don't wanna burn anything up.

Thanks

Not sure. but I would use lower drain cells - it sounds a little crazy hot.

Yeah, I built a Q8 with those LED’s some time back and it gets silly hot.

They are also very floody compared to the stock XP-L LED’s.

What batteries do you use?

It’s not my light, I built it for someone else. Decided to leave the XP-L LED’s in mine.

Personally I always limit the ramp to around 50% power which is not so bad, so that is how I limit the heat. Turbo goes to 100% of course.

That's what I figure.. turbo for showing off.

I’m having a hard time finding brass screws for q8??. I can get on eBay from China, but that will take forever if at all with this stuff going on. Anyone know where to get?.

Typical US hardware sources don't have much in metric, yet alone brass metric. I was able to get some limited types though, I think. Did you look at Bolt Depot?

Yep, they have the screws, but not in brass… they have brass, but not in metric lol… I was going to try some local hardware stores if I get the nerve to go out in public. Been lil crazy… people are not in there right minds lately…

I ordered a bunch of brass screws over a year ago for my Q8. I only needed 4 of them. If I can find them, I’ll throw a few in the mail for you.

If you have a Parkrose Hardware near you, they’d have the brass screws. I’ve found fasteners and hardware there I never thought existed outside of China ornsoecial order.