I removed AR coating from both sides of one lens, and only one side of another. The latter was a prototype which apparently only got coated on one side.
AR coating increases the amount of light it lets through. That’s what it’s for. However, AR coating also tends to change the tint. So I sacrificed a few lumens for a slightly better tint.
For comparison, ZebraLight uses a button timing of ~600 ms, and even that is too fast for some people.
The fastest I’ve seen anyone use was ~256 ms.
Edit: it looks like ZL’s “press timeout” is about ~600 ms, but their “release timeout” appears to be more like 350 to 400 ms… almost identical to Anduril’s default … side-by-side they appear to be exactly the same delay.
Gotcha. I just did a little “head smack”… because of course, “anti-reflect” means there’s no light lost on reflection. I’ve got the NW 3D tint. It’s beautifully neutral. Not seeing any green, yellow, or blue. And actually on lower modes it seems just a little warm to my eye. I’m very happy I went with it, over the much yellower 7A.
Count me in as one of those people who gets a little annoyed by how long I have to hold the switch from off on my ZL to keep it from going to turbo. And to hold it for off. I sure wish they’d adjust that… Overall, I think it’s a terrific light, for it’s own proprietary distinctiveness. Would be kind of cool to have Anduril running on it, though.
My timing was extremely low tech, a digital stopwatch. :person_facepalming: . Highly unscientific or accurate but it was the best I could do. My bad…
. EDIT:
Yep, sure looks neutral white to me. It was pretty clearly stated in the product details page. And it’s a good rendition of NW, too. I’m really happy with it. I don’t get how some people are all bugged out about all their lights being warm Hi CRI. It’s nice to have some variety… The thing to avoid is screechy ice blue. The nasty of 6500K LED’s past. Yuck.
Is there a way to reset the Anduril UI to factory defaults ?
For some uknown reason , double click (from OFF) doesn’t seem to enter Turbo , or other shortcuts (battcheck , lock out etc ) (edit: with triple/qud click etc) .
I have been using mine for a while now, and after the initial problems with dirt etc, everything has worked well. I am now using 35E’s instead of 30Q’s as I don’t need scary bright for 10 seconds
I find I prefer the 7A to the 3D given the choice. I am liking this flashlight more and more and even used candle mode last night. I have also got a 219c on order and am definitely in for any copper versions in the future.
All in all its a very good flashlight that has taken over from my Emisar D4s (for now :-)) as my goto light.
Thanks very much for all the effort that has gone into this.
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
Really wanted to try Anduril but doesn’t seem like a good trade off for reliability. Guess flashing the D4 is my next stop.
Ok so I did do a side by side comparison and to my eye the eo3h is slightly warmer, so I’d say you’re right with your guess at 4000k.
I definitely have to say though, @ToyKeeper did a stellar job on the iu,
I can’t stop playing with it,
Now that I’ve slept on it I’ve realized that a significant part of my disappointment is that candle mode doesn’t look that good in a neutral white tint,
Though I did have some lighting gells laying around,
I wonder if a piece of CTO can fix that…
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.
Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose - tightened up and never gave me a problem again.