Sounds like a plan hyperduc, thank you. :+1:
Oh yeah, like JasonWW said above; 3D would be Neutral White… not Cold. . 
Yep, sure looks neutral white to me. It was pretty clearly stated in the product details page. And it’s a good rendition of NW, too. I’m really happy with it. I don’t get how some people are all bugged out about all their lights being warm Hi CRI. It’s nice to have some variety… The thing to avoid is screechy ice blue. The nasty of 6500K LED’s past. Yuck.
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Hello everyone .
Is there a way to reset the Anduril UI to factory defaults ?
For some uknown reason , double click (from OFF) doesn’t seem to enter Turbo , or other shortcuts (battcheck , lock out etc ) (edit: with triple/qud click etc) .
Thanks
Try quickly clicking the button six times.
Your light might be in muggle mode.
There is no reset. Sorry.
Double click (from OFF) never went to Turbo, it goes to the highest regulated mode (top of the default ramp). Double click while On will go to Turbo.
As far as the others, you might be in muggle mode as said above.
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I have been using mine for a while now, and after the initial problems with dirt etc, everything has worked well. I am now using 35E’s instead of 30Q’s as I don’t need scary bright for 10 seconds 
I find I prefer the 7A to the 3D given the choice. I am liking this flashlight more and more and even used candle mode last night. I have also got a 219c on order and am definitely in for any copper versions in the future.
All in all its a very good flashlight that has taken over from my Emisar D4s (for now :-)) as my goto light.
Thanks very much for all the effort that has gone into this.
Indeed i was in muggle mode , thanks Minocc & Jason .
I was also in “stepped” mode , thats what made me think i wasn’t in muggle mode before 
.
Been 5 minutes into Anduril i think i figured everything out .
Thanks again
Received my 3D and 7A, both DOA. Followed troubleshooting but no luck reviving them. Haven’t given up yet but the chances seem like they’re gettting slimmer.
Really wanted to try Anduril but doesn’t seem like a good trade off for reliability. Guess flashing the D4 is my next stop.
Ok so I did do a side by side comparison and to my eye the eo3h is slightly warmer, so I’d say you’re right with your guess at 4000k.
I definitely have to say though, @ToyKeeper did a stellar job on the iu,
I can’t stop playing with it, 
Now that I’ve slept on it I’ve realized that a significant part of my disappointment is that candle mode doesn’t look that good in a neutral white tint,
Though I did have some lighting gells laying around,
I wonder if a piece of CTO can fix that…
One dead flashlight, manufacturer error. TWO dead-on-arrival? You must be doing something wrong. Cheack the troubleshooting thread. Maybe your batteries are too long.
Battery stickers maybe?
Please list details of exactly what you did, known good batts, etc., maybe we can help. I got the 3D and 7A and one was DOA but the driver retaining ring was loose - tightened up and never gave me a problem again.
Well that’s a bit of a mystery. I run my light in stepped ramping (not smooth). When I switched to muggle mode, it showed smooth ramping instead of stepped. Triple click would not switch from smooth to stepped. When I took the light out of muggle mode, it remembered that primary mode was set for stepped ramping. So I’m really puzzled how you got into stepped ramping while in muggle mode. 
Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. :+1:
If you have not already, be sure to READ & DO exactly what is said in post #1 & post #2.
It would be a good idea to read all the first 7 posts.
The likelihood of you getting two, truly DOA FW3A’s; is very slim.
Keep us posted. :+1:
Inclined to agree it’s operator error, but one shows no life and the other immediately goes to 100% with no control as soon as threads make contact. I’ll be continuing in the troubleshooting thread as my details are already posted there, unless I run out of options. Then I’ll be back to cause trouble here.
Two known good 30Q, cleaned threads, tightened tail cap in order, both retaining rings tight on arrival, loosened then tightened both to confirm driver alignment, disassembled and reassembled switches, checked and cleaned switch contact tube, swapped heads and tails between bodies. Problems follow each head - one has never illuminated with either switch and tube, x the other has always gone to 100% with no control.
Ahh, ok. The one goin to 100% sounds like a short if it goes to 100% without even activating the switch. Not sure how comfortable you are with looking int to the head, but the easiest thing to check is the wire connections to the MCPCB perhaps, if you are ok with removing the bezel, then getting out the optics - should give you a clear view of the wire solder connections, and then inspect for anything loose, bare wire, ground shorts, etc.
Also from the back of the driver, be sure the brass colored ring around the edge of the driver is not making contact with the driver retaining ring - they need to be separated. That ring on the driver is for the black inner tube contact for the switch signal, while the driver retaining ring should be the batt- signal.
I had a similar issue, I removed the clip and straightened out the ring as it was slightly deformed and caused the tail to feel tight but not sit flush.
Thanks, TK.