Inclined to agree it’s operator error, but one shows no life and the other immediately goes to 100% with no control as soon as threads make contact. I’ll be continuing in the troubleshooting thread as my details are already posted there, unless I run out of options. Then I’ll be back to cause trouble here.
Two known good 30Q, cleaned threads, tightened tail cap in order, both retaining rings tight on arrival, loosened then tightened both to confirm driver alignment, disassembled and reassembled switches, checked and cleaned switch contact tube, swapped heads and tails between bodies. Problems follow each head - one has never illuminated with either switch and tube, x the other has always gone to 100% with no control.
Ahh, ok. The one goin to 100% sounds like a short if it goes to 100% without even activating the switch. Not sure how comfortable you are with looking int to the head, but the easiest thing to check is the wire connections to the MCPCB perhaps, if you are ok with removing the bezel, then getting out the optics - should give you a clear view of the wire solder connections, and then inspect for anything loose, bare wire, ground shorts, etc.
Also from the back of the driver, be sure the brass colored ring around the edge of the driver is not making contact with the driver retaining ring - they need to be separated. That ring on the driver is for the black inner tube contact for the switch signal, while the driver retaining ring should be the batt- signal.
I had a similar issue, I removed the clip and straightened out the ring as it was slightly deformed and caused the tail to feel tight but not sit flush.
I think it was decided that because of constant development there are too many revisions for it to be helpful and it would end up being some confusing series of a lot of blinks for not much real benefit.
Thanks for the answer Jason. It was more a theoretical question that practical as I wouldn’t polish it for sure. No tools nor know-how! I just wanted to perceive how the materials would change and how it would look after polishing !
Thanks again :+1:
Does anyone know how to track shipments from Neil’s Gadgets? I was provided with a number and I am used to tracking packages from abroad (Asia, Europe, Russia) but can’t get any services to recognize the number. Thanks in advance.
I had good luck with ALL-IN-ONE PACKAGE TRACKING | 17TRACK. Keep in mind that there’s a DHL hand-off to USPS near the end (in the USA that is) and the USPS website doesn’t track it. You will see updates on 17 Track.
I haven’t been to SF in a long time. How’s the sygyzy club these days? Is the giant octopus still alive?
That should be compatible. That will come with wires pre-soldered on that you wont need but no big deal. If you have a little soldering experience it should be fairly straightforward.
The Nichia 219C has a nice even tint, though. No ugly shifts across the beam. Of course, the Cree HI emitters don’t have tint shift, either. Lower CRI, though.
But what about the SST-20? Does it have tint shift?
Right. Considering this was a PRE-ORDER & you were toward the end of the list at numbers 2106 & 2107, a month is not bad at all…. and not even close to “the end of the world”. :+1:
If you can unsolder the two wires the new MCPCB comes with & the two wires on the FW3A MCPCB, swap the MCPCB’s & resolder the two wires in the FW3A on to the new MCPCB… your good to go.
With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.
Anyone else seen a tracking showing returned to shipper? Mine shows shipped on 05-20-19 and then "Returned to shipper" 05-22-19. I emailed Neal but haven't heard back yet. I'm more patient when I'm not confused...