FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

[mortuus]

@heatwaves

With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.

no i dont think nichia rules out the sst20, last i read here they are still working on getting it or something.

[BlueSwordM]

Yeah.

The SST-20 is throwier, has better color rendition, and has the same efficiency, and is actually cheaper to get.

[bigtrav261]

[teacher]

@bigtrav261

Is this yours?? Or you just posting a picture you found somewhere??

[saypat]

someone should hit the rude button on this person for posting this picture

[teacher]

. /\ …

[Marc_E]

@mortuus

@heatwaves

With the release of the nichia version, does this mean the SST-20 version is dead or delayed further? I prefer the SST-20, but would buy the nichia version if it’s confirmed that it’s replacing the SST-20 that’s been hard to source.

no i dont think nichia rules out the sst20, last i read here they are still working on getting it or something.

Post #11009:

@Neal

because we still not found the SST20 and LH351D led
and a few people asked for the nichia version
so I add it to the list, lumintop will assembly some next week.

I take that to mean the Nichia version is as well as, and not instead of, the SST-20 version, and does not impact the production of the SST-20 version.

[ToyKeeper]

@contactcr

@hank

Any chance of making the driver blink out a self-identification including a revision number?

I think it was decided that because of constant development there are too many revisions for it to be helpful and it would end up being some confusing series of a lot of blinks for not much real benefit.

Yeah, it’s usually easy enough to figure out the revision based on the light’s behavior. A useful version string would end up being very long and difficult to read.

@Melez

Full disclosure: I am something of an idiot.

Then you’re in good company. Most of us are idiots around here. At least, I know I’ve done some pretty dumb things…

[ToyKeeper]

@bigtrav261

That’s a pic from Neal. It’s a FW3C prototype sample.

I’m hoping the production version can be polished or even just raw to improve durability and give it more of a classic copper look.

[bigtrav261]

Nope, not mine. I’m not fortunate enough to have such good connections. This was posted on a FB group, and was originally posted on reddit.

@teacher

@bigtrav261

Is this yours?? Or you just posting a picture you found somewhere??

[teacher]

/\ .

[will34]

Sandblasted Ti body and tail + raw Cu head

Is it ok to dream?

[mortuus]

so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

[WalkIntoTheLight]

@mortuus

so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7x7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.

[ikkentobi]

Is there some estimation how long the FW3A will run on the lowest moon mode, for example on a 30Q cell?

[JasonWW]

@WalkIntoTheLight

@mortuus

so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?

Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7x7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.

I don’t know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess it’s pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.

Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about it, though.

The only thing I’d stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.

I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. It’s more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. It’s kind of a subjective number, so don’t pay too much attention to it.

The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you don’t care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.

[Eraursls1984]

@will34

Sandblasted Ti body and tail + raw Cu head

Is it ok to dream?

I’d rather have full Time. Even if that means the fet is turned off by default to protect the LED’s.

[Boaz]

Has anyone baked one of these yet .

That light in a bag looks like maybe it was done in the microwave. you know how they tell you NOT to cook in those plastic bags .. :P

[zak.wilson (Zak)]

The light in the bag is a prototype FW3C, made of copper.

Copper isn’t really my thing, but I do like titanium and I’d probably buy an FW3T. Yes, I know the thermal properties are worse.

Titanium with a copper shelf section like the D4Ti would also be fun.

[justanotherguy]

I wish neal could find out what happened to my #2… ordered at the same time as #1 - which arrived two weeks ago