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Post #11009:
I take that to mean the Nichia version is as well as, and not instead of, the SST-20 version, and does not impact the production of the SST-20 version.
Yeah, itās usually easy enough to figure out the revision based on the lightās behavior. A useful version string would end up being very long and difficult to read.
Then youāre in good company. Most of us are idiots around here. At least, I know Iāve done some pretty dumb thingsā¦
Thatās a pic from Neal. Itās a FW3C prototype sample.
Iām hoping the production version can be polished or even just raw to improve durability and give it more of a classic copper look.
Nope, not mine. Iām not fortunate enough to have such good connections. This was posted on a FB group, and was originally posted on reddit.
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Sandblasted Ti body and tail + raw Cu head
Is it ok to dream?
so 35E batteries are the best if u looking for best runtimes yea ?
Those are 8A cells, which is certainly plenty for the regulated modes. 7x7135 chips should max out at 2.5A, assuming they are 350mA chips.
I donāt know what the max current is on turbo, which is pure FET driver. I would guess itās pushing around 8A with a full battery, less as the battery depletes. Anyone measure it? IIRC, I think the max discharge of the 35E is rated at 13A, but that would be for brief periods.
Given how quickly the light will ramp down on turbo, I doubt the battery would be draining more than 8A for very long, if at all. So the 35E should be fine. Or, you could go with a Sanyo GA cell (10A) which gives you some margin. Personally, I wouldnāt worry about it, though.
The only thing Iād stay away from are older low-drain cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650B.
Is there some estimation how long the FW3A will run on the lowest moon mode, for example on a 30Q cell?
I think the continuous discharge rating is pretty irrelevant. Itās more of a way to compare batteries and not so much a way to match a battery to a light. You are taking it way too literally. Itās kind of a subjective number, so donāt pay too much attention to it.
The best runtimes might be from the Panasonic NCR18650B, assuming you donāt care about measuring the Turbo output. The 35E and GA (and MJ1) are also fine cells for this light.
Iād rather have full Time. Even if that means the fet is turned off by default to protect the LEDās.
Has anyone baked one of these yet .
That light in a bag looks like maybe it was done in the microwave. you know how they tell you NOT to cook in those plastic bags .. :P
The light in the bag is a prototype FW3C, made of copper.
Copper isnāt really my thing, but I do like titanium and Iād probably buy an FW3T. Yes, I know the thermal properties are worse.
Titanium with a copper shelf section like the D4Ti would also be fun.
I wish neal could find out what happened to my #2ā¦ ordered at the same time as #1 - which arrived two weeks ago
By the way, I havenāt seen anyone mention the LG āchocolateā (hg2) batteries yet. They come highly recommended from a buddy at work who vapes quite a bit.
Unprotected, 3000mAh, 20A drain, and their specs show that they should fit just fine.
edit official specs say this could be as tall as 65.2mm. May fit? edit
The chemistry is INR, which is also good.
I think thatās the next cell Iām going to try unless anyone has a 3500mAh they recommend.
Update - I just got a tracking notice from DHL, package was re-shipped on 05/23 with an anticipated delivery date of 05/28! Yay!
Perhaps the logjam has been broken. "You get a FW3A, and YOU get a FW3A, etc!"
Thatās fine, too. Itās a bit like a 30Q. No reason it would not fit. You should expect high output for a short time on turbo just like with a 30Q.
Youāre most likely safe, even with the lower-drain NCR18650B. FET drivers tend to adjust current down with low-drain batteries, because the voltage-sag reduces voltage and thus drops current. Boost drivers ignore that, and just suck as much current as they need.
But I donāt think you should ignore the continuous discharge rating of batteries. Itās there to make sure things stay safe. Low-drain cells will heat up much more at high discharge than high-drain cells. You donāt want the battery to get too hot. Theyāre usually rated for somewhere around 70-80C.
Yes, you can probably run a battery even hotter than that, but the risk increases. Itās better to pick a cell to match the current demands of the light.
In this case, the Samsung 35E should be fine. The Panasonic NCR18650B (or even lower drain cells) may still be okay, but likely because the light just canāt run in turbo very long.
Itās a good cell. Not as popular nowadays as LG Chem doesnāt like how vapers are using their cells. They even have a safety warning about it on their website. Although Samsung SDI also has such a page on their website but I think they might not actually care as Iāve seen more Samsung cells than LGās.
Also the HG2 is not an INR cell. Itās just a name and actually nowadays thereās hardly such a thing as a Nickel (INR) or a Cobalt (ICR, LCO) or a Manganese (IMR, LMR etc) cell. āHybridā chemistries are the most common now and have been for a while now.
With the HG2 actually being LiNiMnCo or if you want a three letter acronym: NMC. The 30Q is also NMC.
While the 35E and MJ1 are LiNiCoAl or NCA.
As far as which 3400-3500mAh cell you should pick. Eh, itās a bit of a wash. 35E and MJ1 are good choices. As well as Panasonic GA. Buy whatever is cheaper.