FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

You’re most likely safe, even with the lower-drain NCR18650B. FET drivers tend to adjust current down with low-drain batteries, because the voltage-sag reduces voltage and thus drops current. Boost drivers ignore that, and just suck as much current as they need.

But I don’t think you should ignore the continuous discharge rating of batteries. It’s there to make sure things stay safe. Low-drain cells will heat up much more at high discharge than high-drain cells. You don’t want the battery to get too hot. They’re usually rated for somewhere around 70-80C.

Yes, you can probably run a battery even hotter than that, but the risk increases. It’s better to pick a cell to match the current demands of the light.

In this case, the Samsung 35E should be fine. The Panasonic NCR18650B (or even lower drain cells) may still be okay, but likely because the light just can’t run in turbo very long.

It’s a good cell. Not as popular nowadays as LG Chem doesn’t like how vapers are using their cells. They even have a safety warning about it on their website. Although Samsung SDI also has such a page on their website but I think they might not actually care as I’ve seen more Samsung cells than LG’s.

Also the HG2 is not an INR cell. It’s just a name and actually nowadays there’s hardly such a thing as a Nickel (INR) or a Cobalt (ICR, LCO) or a Manganese (IMR, LMR etc) cell. “Hybrid” chemistries are the most common now and have been for a while now.
With the HG2 actually being LiNiMnCo or if you want a three letter acronym: NMC. The 30Q is also NMC.
While the 35E and MJ1 are LiNiCoAl or NCA.

As far as which 3400-3500mAh cell you should pick. Eh, it’s a bit of a wash. 35E and MJ1 are good choices. As well as Panasonic GA. Buy whatever is cheaper.

You are not alone, I too suffer from buy two get one syndrome.

No response to my email. Order number 3482.

What about Morse code ?

Firstly, Boost drivers don’t just suck as much current as they need. They have voltage limits programed in. If you put a weak battery in, weak as in big voltage sag under load, the boost driver will sense this and not activate it’s higher current modes. Same thing for a high cuurent battery that does not sag as much under load that is partially depleted. The driver will sense the lower voltage and limit it’s current draw by only turning on at lower brightness levels.

Back to the cells heating up…
I think a lot of what your saying is theory, in reality I don’t believe there is a single light on the market capable of heating up the battery due to high current use. Whenever you have high current drain you also have high led temperatures. The poor efficiency of leds and all the heat they generate (roughly 25–30 light and 65–70 heat) will cause the light to overheat well before the battery gets over heated. Even people that let their flashlight heads get up to 70-80°C still have the battery temps at safe temperatures.

So I think your kinda worried about nothing. Just my opinion, no offense meant.

(We do need to keep in mind that all batteries are not perfect. If you have an unprotected cell that gets deeply discharged, like below 2.5v, it’s most likely compromised and dangerous to use. It could vent at lower than normal temps or simply overheat under load or more likely during charging. This happens quite a bit with unknown used cells that people recycle from other devices. This type of situation would be an exception to what I said earlier. I an assuming we are all using good quality cells that are not damaged in our lights.)

Does anyone know of any lights capable of overheating a battery before the head overheats? I don’t know of any, but I’d like to know if it exists. (It’s certainly not the FW3A)

Well those replies are confidence inspiring! I remember the basics of soldering, but I should probably watch a YouTube refresher. I mean I’m relatively handy… Definitely won’t do this anywhere near my woodshop. But at least when I mess up I’ll know some understanding people.

TLF and colored body parts:
(sorry in German)

Someone colored the tail switch cover golden with lighter fluid and heat
Pic:

The next heat-treated the whole lamp
pic:

A few posts above one has a blue switch

I’m not subscribed to TLF so I can’t enlarge the pictures, but I can see the gray turns a goldish color.

Are they having the same issues over there as we are with lights needing to be cleaned and tightened properly to get working?

A little birdie told me they paid $1 US extra to have them all cleaned, lubed, inspected, tightened, & pre-tested before theirs shipped.
Not a bad deal… :+1:
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...if it were actually true.... . :wink:

You mean 5$US?

hopefully a F3WB = brass comes together with the F3WCopper… I wanna see what the light looks like with both metals haha…

Naah…. $1. They got a special deal. :wink:

Naah…. $1. They got a special deal.

It averages about 1.7 mA on moon, and a 30Q cell has 3000 mAh, so that’s 3000 / 1.7 / 24 = 73.5 days.

The 35E cell is probably a somewhat better choice for this light though, especially if you want to use low modes a lot. It should last about 85.8 days on moon.

Great lights! Many thanks to the team.
3D and 7A came in the same box with VTC6 on Thursday, but got them outside tonight for the first time. It is difficult to believe such small lights perform so well. They look great- no complaints about the clip. Both worked right out of the box. So glad I found BLF for these and for the outrageously bright A6. You guys are the best!

Yes, if true, that would be a great few dollars spent for almost everyone.

Yes, that would have been a really good investment :money_mouth_face:
If such an offer had existed…

No, Same issues in Germany with the FW3A :frowning:

/\:+1:

Yes, most are fine with cleaning and tightening.
The only not working light I know is from Nagonka.

im using hg2 fits fine, but its kinda pointless having a 20A battery in this kind of light, even 30Q is overkill so i will stick with samsung 35E that has like 3400mah or something…