Very true. Back then it was awful and really was a terrible experience. But now it doesn’t seem like it was all that bad since one tend to forget how bad things were long ago.
I won’t even go to how “interesting” it was getting shot by rubber bullets or how fast one can run when being chased by people with big clubs who had legal authority to use them :weary:
Ouch…. “rubber bullets & big clubs” could get “interesting” real fast!! 
That really would “suck”. 
I guess looking back…. time does put a different perspective on things.
I figured that since the front bezel FW3A is attached using external screw threads on the body, unscrewing the bezel won’t affect anything internally. The counter-clockwise rotation to remove it might cause the front glass to rotate for a small amount, but the optic definitely doesn’t move. I pop it out, then put a replacement optic into the 3 peg holes, lay over the glass, then screw down the bezel. Nothing internally rotates. But I hear you, that it may not be true for every assembly.
I will follow your advice, though. The next time I do it, I’ll take a toothpick to the MCPCB and check to see if it’s well anchored in place or loose. I definitely don’t want to end up torquing the wires and cause them to detach!
Hey… if you have not had any problems your obviously doing it right. I wouldn’t change anything. (And I did not suggest a “toothpick” for anything either… )
All I am saying is just because you have not experienced a problem does not mean someone else will not experience it.
I have found that a little bit of pressure on the glass lens with my thumb when removing or tightening the bezel on lights where the MCPCB can rotate is enough to prevent a problem. (after the first time I ripped the wires loose on one)
/\ ……
I have double check to make sure i’m not in muggle mode.
I’m unable to go into Group 2 now.
When i perform click, click, hold ……it just respond by one dim flash/flicker and goes off.
I’m able to go into Group 2 the first time when i received this light and i was playing with all the Group 2 mode (candle, bike flasher, party strobe, tactical strobe, lightning storm). The last Group 2 mode i used was lightning storm.
About the wires getting ripped off by rotation, I’m guessing that isn’t usually an issue for people who change the optic, since the thermal paste is already stiffened up by the time they open the light. It might be an issue at the factory though, when the paste is still fresh and moves freely.
It might just be that lightning storm mode doesn’t feel like making any big flashes right away. After the dim flash, try leaving the light alone to see if the lightning continues. Or, after the dim flash, try to click twice to see if it goes to the next mode.
I did try to wait but nothing happen so i try to click twice and it goes into turbo.
Lightning mode > sliced bread.
By the way, how does one adjust the party strobe to “freeze” things, such as falling water and ceiling fans? Is it just trial and error? I don’t mean how to button press to make changes, i got that part, I mean what frequency works, slower/faster.
ceiling fans look good at many different speeds, you just have to try them all…
falling water, hard to say
… just change the speed until it looks good? It’s not a science; it’s more of an aesthetic thing. As a general guideline though, typically the ideal flashing speed correlates to the speed of the thing being viewed. Faster-moving objects tend to work better with faster strobe frequencies.
Unscrew the head and screw it back on just in case.
Thanks TK. Kind of what I thought, trial and error until it looks good. Really cool at any rate.
By the way, you skipped part of the quote; lightning mode>sliced bread.
i mean it would be different if the flashlight had some way to tell you its strobe speed, then you could tell the speed of rotating objects, but it doesn;t do that, so anything ‘works’ - it’s just fun and games
wle
Very strange. I’m not sure what could cause this. Do all the other functions work, like battery check and temperature check? It fully ramps up and down?
Just no strobes are working?
All are working. Just can’t go into Group 2 mode.
Did as you suggested. Unfortunately it didn’t work. Maybe a full disassembly will, but I lack the skills.
damm : /
1000 point question: does the 219C FWA3 have the 219 dedicated firmware Toykeeper made?