/\ …… 
I have double check to make sure i’m not in muggle mode.
I’m unable to go into Group 2 now.
When i perform click, click, hold ……it just respond by one dim flash/flicker and goes off.
I’m able to go into Group 2 the first time when i received this light and i was playing with all the Group 2 mode (candle, bike flasher, party strobe, tactical strobe, lightning storm). The last Group 2 mode i used was lightning storm.
About the wires getting ripped off by rotation, I’m guessing that isn’t usually an issue for people who change the optic, since the thermal paste is already stiffened up by the time they open the light. It might be an issue at the factory though, when the paste is still fresh and moves freely.
It might just be that lightning storm mode doesn’t feel like making any big flashes right away. After the dim flash, try leaving the light alone to see if the lightning continues. Or, after the dim flash, try to click twice to see if it goes to the next mode.
I did try to wait but nothing happen so i try to click twice and it goes into turbo.
Lightning mode > sliced bread.
By the way, how does one adjust the party strobe to “freeze” things, such as falling water and ceiling fans? Is it just trial and error? I don’t mean how to button press to make changes, i got that part, I mean what frequency works, slower/faster.
ceiling fans look good at many different speeds, you just have to try them all…
falling water, hard to say
… just change the speed until it looks good? It’s not a science; it’s more of an aesthetic thing. As a general guideline though, typically the ideal flashing speed correlates to the speed of the thing being viewed. Faster-moving objects tend to work better with faster strobe frequencies.
Unscrew the head and screw it back on just in case.
Thanks TK. Kind of what I thought, trial and error until it looks good. Really cool at any rate.
By the way, you skipped part of the quote; lightning mode>sliced bread. 
i mean it would be different if the flashlight had some way to tell you its strobe speed, then you could tell the speed of rotating objects, but it doesn;t do that, so anything ‘works’ - it’s just fun and games
wle
Very strange. I’m not sure what could cause this. Do all the other functions work, like battery check and temperature check? It fully ramps up and down?
Just no strobes are working?
All are working. Just can’t go into Group 2 mode.
Did as you suggested. Unfortunately it didn’t work. Maybe a full disassembly will, but I lack the skills.
damm : /
1000 point question: does the 219C FWA3 have the 219 dedicated firmware Toykeeper made?
No time to learn like the present.
Try taking the bezel off & optic out, then look to make sure the wires are still soldered securely to the MCPCB.
Did you try another battery just for the heck of it??
That was for 219Bs; 219Cs should be able to handle direct drive. So I’m guessing no.
The 219C D4 has a different firmware limiting the fet to 80% so I was guessing this light could have it as well.
My light has been operating correctly except for an occasional glitch that goes away by tightening the head. Took the battery out today to charge for the first time so decided to check the retaining ring for tightness. Although it would not spin any tighter, I thought I saw it move towards the side (outward) as if it were cracked or didn’t fit the threads. Also, the signal ring is not center in relation to the retaining ring but the driver does not move and it appears to be seated flat with no gaps between it and the retainer ring. Doesn’t seem to affect operation but was wondering if anyone else has seen movement of the retainer like I described?
I can’t think of anything physically wrong with it. It sounds like a software glitch occurred which I’ve never heard of happening with the ATtiny 85. ToyKeeper might have an idea, but I don’t.
As a last resort you can loosen and check everything and retighten. Maybe even take the driver out and look at it. Loosening and then tightening everything has sometimes mysteriously fixed odd issues. It’s worth a try.