Are there any long throw high CRI lights at all?

@Barkuti

You better not become a biologist!

A pretty widespread mistake that you also show is that subjects are more important if you can measure them more accurately. Or the other way around: anything that you can not measure accurately is not worth measuring at all.

In reality such relation does not exist: many things that can be measured very accurately are utterly unimportant, while many more things let themselves measure very poorly but are extremely important.

In the last case, dismissing existing information on the basis of a superficial presumption of subjectivity or inaccuracy (which is what you do) is a capital error. Data must always be used keeping the amount of accuracy in mind, but simply ignoring it is a total waste of effort and valuable data.

Many biologal problems are eminently difficult to investigate, there’s not many yes or no answers, and many answers show a relative low accuracy compared to say many physics problems. This has nothing to do with biologists (you seem to value them lower than other scientists) but with the difficult subject that biology is. Yet the answers that biologists give do contain an immense amount of important information, to the amount that currently more than 60% of all scientific research is of biological nature, for good reason.

The luminosity function was first measured about a hundred years ago, with some minor corrections in the seventies. You may want to read into what timescale evolution takes place.

The efficiency debate is an interesting one, because it seems like there’s so many different components involved that are also subject to variation by context. Thus, it’s hard to pin down precisely.

  1. Lumens are how much light is given off
  2. Lux is how bright your surface will be
  3. Candela measures the visible intensity from the light source.

Then the perception of the human eye for the light being produced.

“Interestingly - when a user compares two identical flashlight using identical reflectors - one with Cool White LED, and one with Neutral White - our BRAIN says the yellowish NEUTRAL is MUCH dimmer than the bluish COOL… but look again, most users can actually see a lot better and clearer with the NEUTRAL light.”

As for efficiency… “COOL LED are still leading in lumens output over NEUTRAL LED, but not by much anymore.
With today’s high output LED - NEUTRAL tint can now be as close as 6-7% of the lumens output of similar Cool White LED, and human eyes typically can’t see less than 30% difference in lumens output.”

So ultimately, better to have a more neutral or slightly warmer tint… which will be easier on the eyes.

I have a D1 and a D1S Emisar with the 3000K SST-20 Emitter from Hank directly, and they are great!!!

Highly recommend, and truly budget!

djozz, you would be surprised at how many things you say in #24 that I do not agree with (and you say I do) and vice versa.

There is an insane amount of stuff which physical senses or instrumentation does not perceive, and yet it is of utmost importance.

With regard to science, maybe I've been badly influenced by a biologist friend (LoL!) which reeks scientism. When someone tells me they cannot believe something if they do not “see” it, I know there's something very wrong with them because the way things come to exist is the other way around, and so they are at the mercy of whatever authority they submit to instead of their own.

And with regards to #25, thanks. But let me say “evolution” is now taking place at an ultra fast pace in many aspects, namely for those venturing into mind reprogramming, either by themselves and/or with assistance like it is my case. Healing matters.

Back on topic, did anyone tried chemical dedoming on SST-20s? White spirit or turpentine?

:-)

There were trials with hot toluen. They failed.

Recently I found some Chinese COBs meant for endoscopes, stage lights, projectors. They typically are styled after large Luminus LEDs but can have high CRI. This is a new area to me, so I’ll just give a few examples …

100W 7.68 mm² LED that’s advertised to beat SBT90.2 luminosity despite high CRI. Though the hole in the middle is an issue, if it matches the specs, it should be good.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000339811390.html

Single die 60W 9mm², no strict CRI ratings

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32333740921.html

Small LED with a built-in precollimator, if it throws it would make a superb zoomie LED:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000233478407.html

Guess that straight fits inside any ∅20 mm MCPCB flashlight. The base thickness is 2.0 mm versus 1.6 mm, not much of a concern since many zoomies over-focus anyway.

A test of that led would come in handy.

P.S.: The advertised chip brand is Osram.

The Luminus CBT-90 v1 and CBT-140 are available with "WDS" tint (5700K, R9080). The former SBT-70 was also available with this tint.

Barkuti:
Precollimator will shorten focal length by more than this 0.4 mm.

The_Driver:
Thanks, good to know. :slight_smile:

Also, all Xenon short-arc lights like the Maxabeam and the Megaray are high-cri and throw extremely far. The specturm of these bulbs closely matches that of the sun. I wouldn't call these lights budget though . The Maxabeam is the farthest throwing, portable light that is commercially available.

Interestingly, the Phatlight has a separate connector for what looks like a temperature sensor. Wouldn’t want to toast an $88 part!

Since it hasn’t been mentioned in this thread yet, a 95 CRI SST-20 is a factory option on the Noctigon K1.

What is the highest output LED with good R9 values?

Do multi-die LEDs count?
If yes - some large COB will give you many thousand lm.

Well, you asked for it: this!

It's basically a cooking plate that happens to light up.

The brightest power LED with good R9 values is the Cree XHP70.2 with 90CRI. If you don't care about efficiency the Luminius CBT-140 WDH is also an option.

I’ve just stumbled on this year-old thread and realised that the OP is asking pretty much the same question as in my current thread “Powerful hand lamps with high R9”, although his application is different.

I would be very interested in what progress the OP has made in the meantime. Has he managed to find what he was looking for, which lights has he tried (in this regard) and what has his experience been with them?

I also need the long reach and the high R9, although overheating and runtime are less relevant to me.

Even my recommendation a year ago was the same :person_facepalming:

Your recommendation in both cases was the Nightwatch NS22 and (in my case) you also recommended the Noctigon K1.

I can assure you that I have taken your recommendations seriously, although the Noctigon K1 is not (or no longer) offered with the SST-20 4000K option.

I’m thinking of ordering the NS22 Seeker from Neal’s Gadgets in both the SST-20 4000K and 5000K, as the price is so low that I wouldn’t have much to lose if they don’t work out. That would also give me the opportunity to compare the behaviour up to 100 meters of the high CRI 4000K with the 5000K and the Klarus which I already have.

Nonetheless, I live in an apartment and like to avoid clutter, so I’d prefer to get it right first time rather than have the place full of torches!

I live in an apartment and was thinking that too, that was 8 years ago :innocent: