Gocomma assisted & manual flipper knives

Thanks for the info lightbringer, right now I’ll just be withdrawing my balance and if I use paypal it will just go through the bank. I’m guessing they weren’t making enough money the old way(seriously?) so they scrapped it

@ Muto & others

Those are great pics my friend. :beer:

Those two do lockup a bit ’earlier’ than mine.

There is something else that looks slightly different to… but I can’t put my finger on what it is. :person_facepalming:

I've loaned my camera to a buddy but I am gonna get it back & take some closeups that match yours & see if I can tell if their is a slight difference or I'm crazy. :smiley:The safe bet is on crazy. :wink:

Personally, I would have no concern over using either of those.
’But’…. that being said, I only cut with my knives. I do not use them as a pry bar, screwdriver, hammer, or chisel…… I cut with them. :wink:

I might take a bit more liberty with a fixed blade if need be…. but not much. Unless it is an ESEE 5 or 6 of course…… :smiley:

I think with a bit of opening & closing your two will wear in & be just right.

However…. If you want to be rid of them I will be glad to buy them.

I can understand your pause after reading your story about “dotting the i ”… :open_mouth: . :person_facepalming:

Glad that was not worse than it was… :slight_smile:

I only found 2 knives in my stash that have a similar interior liner lock that looks like a frame lock(I’m referencing the 3rd pic on page one of this thread, and the cutout in the liner lock that is opposite the middle scale screw), a Gerber and a Kershaw Link, but all the liner locks are much thinner, this Gocomma is the thickest interior liner lock, is it a heavy knife?

Just mentioning this for Muto, looks like it would be hard to make that lock fail with that thick gauge.

Your talking about this one Blackbeard??

There’s this one with a 7.7cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:

https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009152095568.html

Your right… the lockbar is very thick & robust, just as you describe. :+1:

The knife below is the same way… robust lockbar.

Infact, upon comparing; the lock bar on both of these is much more heavy duty than the Ganzo FH-11 I have

And finally this one with a 8.9cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:

https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009780560071.html

FI…. the above knife is a great one too. . :+1:

Edit… I forgot to answer your question about “heavy” Blackbeard. I don’t consider either one overly heavy. They just have a good solid feel, if that makes any sense to you.

The one pictured above has a more solid feel to me than the FH-11. And… “it will cut” … as well as hold an edge.

Speaking of locking mechanisms, here is a pic of the lock on my FH21. Being new to folding knives and this being my first one, I don’t really know if it’s good or not, but there seems to be a good amount of overlap.

The only way to feel the quality is by fidgeting with it, not by looking at pictures of the position of the locking liner.
But on the pictures you can see that most knifes don’t have a symmetric grounding and this is far more important for a knife. Almost every reviewer don’t even look at this…

Thing is, any more “refunds” and the like, and that goes into the card, so don’t toss it.

Looks fine Pete. :+1: . And like Omega_17 kinda said…. it’s all really about the geometry of how the lockbar meets the angled part of the blade heel. If the geometry is right, the lockup will be right.
And your pic looks great to me. :beer:

Thanks, teacher.

/\:+1:

If Muto feels like his lock up is questionable then he ought to be saying so . I feel like mine is questionable too and am happy someone mentioned it .

thanks for posting pics

If anyone (in the USA) wants to be rid of what they consider a “borderline dangerous or crappy lockup” GoComma, please PM me. I will be more than happy to purchase it/them from you. As long as you have not attempted to sharpen it/them. :+1:

Sorry Teacher but you saying that you're willing to buy them may sound impressive but has no bearing on whether these knives are any good or not .that's just a fallacious argument .

Someone may say an atomic beam is a great flashlight and then offer to buy them from anyone who doesn't like it ...doesn't mean a thing .

If disassembled, can’t that piece be gently bent a little more to provide more coverage?

@Boaz What exactly on those pictures tells you that it’s not safe?

Do a spinewhack test and see if it’s closing on you, easy to do.
Tells nothing about real life but it holds then it will hold normal use, too.

Don’t just say, boo-hoo, this knife is soo dangerous, come up with some facts and show some knowledge on the topic.
Just go back a page and read this Gocomma assisted & manual flipper knives - #197 by teacher

When the whole locking liner has contact with the lockface on the blade and the blade won’t close with a spinewhack then it’s safe.
Try to understand how a liner lock is working, tell why you feel yours is so unsafe.

Otherwise it’s wiser to stay silent.

A folding knife is by definition a broken knife. But they can be safe if you are not a idiot. A locking mechanism is a very recent feature, for example the liner lock was only invented in the 80s.

All I did was offer to buy them…. yours included.

Basically… I doubt very seriously you know what you are talking about Boaz.

Have you even tried to make the lock on yours fail to actually prove what you are saying?? Or are you just posting speculations??

I have, on five (5) of the ones I have left. No lock failure at all. All 5 solid as a rock. And I tried hard to make them fail.

There is nothing to “defend” and ego has nothing to do with it. I am also not insane.

I also do not buy “crappy knives”.
I could surely be wrong… but I am betting I have quite a few more than you & know a few more makers than you too.

I’m not trying to “prove” anything…. are you?? You might want to check your motivation…… especially if you have not even tested yours to see if you can make the lock fail. Cause if you have not, you are doing nothing but spreading your opinions as fact.

If that offends you I hate it. Test your knives honestly & honestly post the results…. not just your ‘opinions’.

Oh yeah, as I posted last night; open the knife rather hard several times. On a new knife such as these, there is a very good chance the lockbar will move to the right a bit.

The sky is not falling….

For anyone interested in the subject, the two post below from a thread “Proper Liner-Lock Engagement?” are both interesting & informative reading.

The two posts are by Joe Talmadge. Many, many more than a few people consider him an expert……

Proper Liner-Lock Engagement?

by Joe Talmadge

Okay, I think the very question doesn’t make sense, because by design liner locks are meant to change position over time. It would be very odd if a lock that was purpose-designed to change position, really only had one position that was “perfect”. Why design it to change positions then?

The liner is going to wear, period. As it wears, it will move over to the right. At the point that it hits the far scales, there is no more room to wear, so when the liner inevitably wears just a little more, the lockup becomes suspect and blade play gets introduced. At this point, the liner lock is technically worn out, but there are ways to fix it, like introducing a bigger stop pin, which will send the liner back to the left again.

Overall, IMO the answer to the question of “proper proportion of engagement to blade” is, provided the lockup is secure and not susceptible to accidental failure, the entire range of liner-to-the-left to liner-to-the-right is “proper”. Obviously, on a new knife, it’s desireable to see the liner a bit more to the left, since that gives it lots of room to wear, and a longer lifetime. Beyond that, I have seen liner locks that are susceptible to failure even though the lock is way far to the right, or in the middle, or anywhere else. There is absolutely no particular lockup position that will guarantee you best lock safety. I’ve seen liner locks with the liners hanging precipitously off the blade tang way to the left, that I couldn’t fail no matter what. The challenge of liner locks is getting the geometry right across the entire lockup range, not trying to find one perfect position, because none exists.

Another of many variables here is the tang ramp. The smaller the angle on the ramp, the tighter the lockup (to the point that it could take two hands to unlock) but the more quickly the lock wears. The bigger the angle, the slower the wear, but the more critical the lockup geometry. As usual, there’s no clear right answer: just like choice of blade steel and method of heat treatment, it’s up to the knifemaker to make the right tradeoffs for his customers. 7 degrees-ish is popular.

Joe

[ edited to change “pivot pin” to “stop pin” (oops!) thanks to cpirtle for pointing that out]
……

One last note. The liner locks on new knives often have a “break in” period where they move to the right very quickly. So for me, the optimum position of the liner for a brand new knife is hanging very slightly off the left side of the liner. Then I open in 25 times with moderate force, and the liner will quickly move right and engage across its entire face on the left side. But I’m picking nits here, as long as the liner starts off to the left, I’m happy.

Joe

No…. that would screw up the geometry & make it much more likely to fail. Do not bend. :wink:

Muto's knife doesn't look all that hot, but I don't know if it's dangerous.

I wouldn't want a knife like that, and I think that teacher offering to buy it is actually a good thing for anyone that has a Gocomma knife like that.