FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

That was for 219Bs; 219Cs should be able to handle direct drive. So I’m guessing no.

The 219C D4 has a different firmware limiting the fet to 80% so I was guessing this light could have it as well.

My light has been operating correctly except for an occasional glitch that goes away by tightening the head. Took the battery out today to charge for the first time so decided to check the retaining ring for tightness. Although it would not spin any tighter, I thought I saw it move towards the side (outward) as if it were cracked or didn’t fit the threads. Also, the signal ring is not center in relation to the retaining ring but the driver does not move and it appears to be seated flat with no gaps between it and the retainer ring. Doesn’t seem to affect operation but was wondering if anyone else has seen movement of the retainer like I described?

I can’t think of anything physically wrong with it. It sounds like a software glitch occurred which I’ve never heard of happening with the ATtiny 85. ToyKeeper might have an idea, but I don’t.

As a last resort you can loosen and check everything and retighten. Maybe even take the driver out and look at it. Loosening and then tightening everything has sometimes mysteriously fixed odd issues. It’s worth a try.

It could perhaps be rebooting as soon as it tries to blink a full-power strobe. This doesn’t generally happen on modern driver designs, but it was an issue with the original Wight driver when given a tiny25 MCU.

One other way to check this is to turn the light off, then hold the button to ramp all the way up. Does it abort and shut itself off? If not, turn the light off when it’s ramped all the way up, then click 3 times for battcheck, 2 times for sunset, and 2 times for beacon. Does full-power beacon mode work, or does it make the light shut itself off?

As far as I can tell, no. It should have the regular 100% power firmware. I never sent anything else to Lumintop, and I don’t think they’re in the habit of picking random files out of my periodic build directory.

Off topic, but what would cause it to reboot? You make it seem light a large surge of power might cause voltage sag on the MCU. Maybe the input voltage to the MCU goes below 1.8v very briefly?

Should I write one for the assembly personal?

Yes you are right, from off i ramp all the way up till max and it shut itself off.

I just remember the head heats up dam fast and dam hot during the lightning storm mode.

In past designs, it was the other way around. Voltage would spike to levels way above the attiny’s accepted range, at the trailing edge of each FET pulse. The attiny13a was okay with this and kept working anyway, but tiny25/45/85 is more sensitive to staying within its specified range. That’s why the Astrolux S41 used a BLF-A6 driver instead of a Bistro driver.

It shouldn’t be an issue with anything recent though, so it’s kind of a long shot. This issue was fixed a long time ago in pretty much everyone’s driver designs.

That can probably be fixed by taking the light apart, cleaning everything, and putting it back together in the recommended order. Teacher’s FW3A thread has the details on that:

do you mean take apart the head and tailcap ?

Every once in a while , mine will ramp up then shut off. Usually just twisting the head cures it .

Okay, points to software.

:person_facepalming:
Okay, this points back to a physical problem. If it shuts off at high current, then you have a weak connection somewhere. It sounds like there is excessive resistance somewhere and low currents allow the light to work fine, but when the current ramps up the weak connection gets overloaded and the circuit breaks. Clean all threads, battery ends and spring ends. Make sure the driver retaining ring threads are both clean and tight.

BTW, you turned off in Lightning storm so lightning storm is the first thing that turns on. Lightning storm always starts with a quick blast of turbo. This is why going into the blinky modes causes the sudden turn off.

1. True

2. Are you sure about this? Based on the below… I think your statement is not correct Jason. Recheck yours please.

  • Mine do not always “start with a quick blast of turbo”. It is completely random…. from having to wait several seconds for anything to happen, to a full blast lightening strike, and/or anything in between.

Mine was doing that first thing this morning.

After fiddling for a while, including some time at turbo, the ramp up to off problem quit happening.

I thought I remembered ToyKeeper saying it always starts with a big blast of Turbo on some other thread. I tried it on my light ONCE, and it started with a big blast so I thought it was true. It does seem to fit the profile that Atoms light kept doing the same thing every time.

I just now tried it a few more times on my light and it does seem random. I’m wrong.

Since Neal was unresponsive to my email requesting info on a possible return, I decided to chance it and see if I could confirm what my multimeter was telling me. Both solder joints on the MCPCB were intact, but after desoldering the wires and removing the driver, I saw that the black wire had broken at the solder joint to the driver. My guess is someone installing the MCPCB or the retaining ring got a little too forceful. The 7A is back from the dead and has quickly kicked the 3D to the “for sale” pile.

Neal hasn’t replied to my original email from Saturday the 25th. I sent it to his Hotmail address listed on his site. I also sent a follow up email yesterday, the 27th when ToyKeeper suggested I reach out for a replacement. Is there an alternate method of contact available? I don’t have the knowledge, skills, and tools to try and fix mine.

I was hoping to have a light for when I go camping in June, next month.

2019?