I only found 2 knives in my stash that have a similar interior liner lock that looks like a frame lock(Iām referencing the 3rd pic on page one of this thread, and the cutout in the liner lock that is opposite the middle scale screw), a Gerber and a Kershaw Link, but all the liner locks are much thinner, this Gocomma is the thickest interior liner lock, is it a heavy knife?
Just mentioning this for Muto, looks like it would be hard to make that lock fail with that thick gauge.
Editā¦ I forgot to answer your question about āheavyā Blackbeard. I donāt consider either one overly heavy. They just have a good solid feel, if that makes any sense to you.
The one pictured above has a more solid feel to me than the FH-11. Andā¦ āit will cutā ā¦ as well as hold an edge.
Speaking of locking mechanisms, here is a pic of the lock on my FH21. Being new to folding knives and this being my first one, I donāt really know if itās good or not, but there seems to be a good amount of overlap.
The only way to feel the quality is by fidgeting with it, not by looking at pictures of the position of the locking liner.
But on the pictures you can see that most knifes donāt have a symmetric grounding and this is far more important for a knife. Almost every reviewer donāt even look at thisā¦
Looks fine Pete. :+1: . And like Omega_17 kinda saidā¦. itās all really about the geometry of how the lockbar meets the angled part of the blade heel. If the geometry is right, the lockup will be right.
And your pic looks great to me.
If Muto feels like his lock up is questionable then he ought to be saying so . I feel like mine is questionable too and am happy someone mentioned it .
If anyone (in the USA) wants to be rid of what they consider a āborderline dangerous or crappy lockupā GoComma, please PM me. I will be more than happy to purchase it/them from you. As long as you have not attempted to sharpen it/them.
Sorry Teacher but you saying that you're willing to buy them may sound impressive but has no bearing on whether these knives are any good or not .that's just a fallacious argument .
Someone may say an atomic beam is a great flashlight and then offer to buy them from anyone who doesn't like it ...doesn't mean a thing .
When the whole locking liner has contact with the lockface on the blade and the blade wonāt close with a spinewhack then itās safe.
Try to understand how a liner lock is working, tell why you feel yours is so unsafe.
A folding knife is by definition a broken knife. But they can be safe if you are not a idiot. A locking mechanism is a very recent feature, for example the liner lock was only invented in the 80s.
All I did was offer to buy themā¦. yours included.
Basicallyā¦ I doubt very seriously you know what you are talking about Boaz.
Have you even tried to make the lock on yours fail to actually prove what you are saying?? Or are you just posting speculations??
I have, on five (5) of the ones I have left. No lock failure at all. All 5 solid as a rock. And I tried hard to make them fail.
There is nothing to ādefendā and ego has nothing to do with it. I am also not insane.
I also do not buy ācrappy knivesā.
I could surely be wrongā¦ but I am betting I have quite a few more than you & know a few more makers than you too.
Iām not trying to āproveā anythingā¦. are you?? You might want to check your motivationā¦ā¦ especially if you have not even tested yours to see if you can make the lock fail. Cause if you have not, you are doing nothing but spreading your opinions as fact.
If that offends you I hate it. Test your knives honestly & honestly post the resultsā¦. not just your āopinionsā.
Oh yeah, as I posted last night; open the knife rather hard several times. On a new knife such as these, there is a very good chance the lockbar will move to the right a bit.
For anyone interested in the subject, the two post below from a thread āProper Liner-Lock Engagement?ā are both interesting & informative reading.
The two posts are by Joe Talmadge. Many, many more than a few people consider him an expertā¦ā¦
Proper Liner-Lock Engagement?
by Joe Talmadge
Okay, I think the very question doesnāt make sense, because by design liner locks are meant to change position over time. It would be very odd if a lock that was purpose-designed to change position, really only had one position that was āperfectā. Why design it to change positions then?
The liner is going to wear, period. As it wears, it will move over to the right. At the point that it hits the far scales, there is no more room to wear, so when the liner inevitably wears just a little more, the lockup becomes suspect and blade play gets introduced. At this point, the liner lock is technically worn out, but there are ways to fix it, like introducing a bigger stop pin, which will send the liner back to the left again.
Overall, IMO the answer to the question of āproper proportion of engagement to bladeā is, provided the lockup is secure and not susceptible to accidental failure, the entire range of liner-to-the-left to liner-to-the-right is āproperā. Obviously, on a new knife, itās desireable to see the liner a bit more to the left, since that gives it lots of room to wear, and a longer lifetime. Beyond that, I have seen liner locks that are susceptible to failure even though the lock is way far to the right, or in the middle, or anywhere else. There is absolutely no particular lockup position that will guarantee you best lock safety. Iāve seen liner locks with the liners hanging precipitously off the blade tang way to the left, that I couldnāt fail no matter what. The challenge of liner locks is getting the geometry right across the entire lockup range, not trying to find one perfect position, because none exists.
Another of many variables here is the tang ramp. The smaller the angle on the ramp, the tighter the lockup (to the point that it could take two hands to unlock) but the more quickly the lock wears. The bigger the angle, the slower the wear, but the more critical the lockup geometry. As usual, thereās no clear right answer: just like choice of blade steel and method of heat treatment, itās up to the knifemaker to make the right tradeoffs for his customers. 7 degrees-ish is popular.
Joe
[ edited to change āpivot pinā to āstop pinā (oops!) thanks to cpirtle for pointing that out]
ā¦ā¦
One last note. The liner locks on new knives often have a ābreak inā period where they move to the right very quickly. So for me, the optimum position of the liner for a brand new knife is hanging very slightly off the left side of the liner. Then I open in 25 times with moderate force, and the liner will quickly move right and engage across its entire face on the left side. But Iām picking nits here, as long as the liner starts off to the left, Iām happy.
The heel of that blade is Tapered left to right also.
So any wear will be taken up as long as contact face of lock bar is even. (98%) of any wear in either anyway.
LB.
I always reckoned that ANY work requiring more than a 3 1\2 ish blade.IS safer with a āproperlyā designed. mfgād, with decent steel, fixed blade.
Anything from a decent 440C up is fine.
My Martiini has done that in several countryās for near 45 yrs.
UP to the size of Buffās.
Any work over 5inchesāish.
Well I reckon my hands and arms are safer behind a decent axe or chainsaw.
āYourā hands grip is only so good for controlling the safe usage of 5inchesāish max, when it sticking out the front.
and always buy a 6 inch curved blade. āmeatworksā boner for jointing meat, (cheap as)
your hands are soooo much safer.
I did several seasons in a small meatworks. Boning. for the skill acquisitions. (They did teach you in those days. ā70/80ās).
Thatāll teach you how to hold. use and not slice your fingers off.
Plus sharpen and remove the working burr, by hand.
Properly.
Also. With an axe. you can use a double handed grip for timber etc.
ALL knivesā¦. Are only as good as YOUR grip and control on the handle. No matter itās size, or yours.
Past that point. It can, and does. Bite you.
Have fun hey.
and Iām still waiting for that C8+ with decent single pill,
with 26650 cell and side sw.
Thatāll be my last light I think. 2 off.
With payments. Iāve only ever paid through Paypal for last 7 or 8 yrs. and never kept any cash in account.
Only ever pay per item, through money linked to Paypal through a debit card.
With an account for such. Through a completely different bank to my actual money holding bankā¦
Teacher.
Sharpening. āProperlyā will only improve your working edge.
That standard edge the Chinese blades come with is a āpocket knifeā working edge. Fine for cutting fruit and cardboard.
I always improve mine by tapering edge from almost ā0ā angle at tip to that 30% at around the half of blade back.
My blades will cut your finger skin through.
Just leaning a bit on the blade against your skin.
No sliding back and forth. Just press.
With the extra body for working in edge further back
and deeper up in blade.
Old meatworkers trick,
slice and cut. Flesh and tough ligaments/tendons.