There is indeed red in a high quality LED. I like this colorized spectral power graph as you can better visualize what the component parts, like the cyan, greens, reds, and so on, of nearly “ideal” white light.
The reason why florescents have such poor color rendering and color qualities is their spectral power. They have an in-ordinate amount of green light, along with allot of yellow in this case, and almost no red and cyan. Compare the spectrum of this 3000K fluorescent to the same 3000K high- CRI LED at the top to see what I mean. You see all the chunks missing?
Fluorescent does exist in 90 CRI form factors typically used in high quality indoor lighting, but even that has too little red and too much green.
The “what we see” representations are a bit off, I think. With the 3000K light the red color of the ball and other reddish things will stand out more brightly even if the eyes have had time to adjust, in my experience. But otherwise the principle holds true. Just think of any time you’ve worn sunglasses for a while, then took them off.
i don;t really expect colors to look right at night anyway, so if it is a little off, i don;t get alarmed at it
also around the house, there are many light sources
warm leds
daylight leds
some cfl
led tv
phone
computer screen
phone
so asking what light source i use in addition to the flashlight, and then requiring 45 minutes to get used to each one, or is there a streetlight out the window, or is the moon full, doesn;t really make sense
The YAG phosphors do indeed push red and deep red to. That’s where their efficiency drops off. The low color rendering LEDs have little red light, but are a bit more efficient. The high color accuracy lights, preferred around these parts, push more red/cyan.
The reason I asked about the phones, smart devices, TVs, and such is that their LED back panels are typically color calibrated for daytime use, and have color temperatures routinely near 6000K. Running F.Lux, or some other blue reducing software, removes the blue and shifts the screen to a warmer color. Looking at a bright 6000K LED screen can skew your adaptation to very blue light sources and make lights like 3000K appear more yellow then what they really are. The “daylight” LED with its 5000K color temperature, as well, will skew things if used allot at night like on a table lamp nearby for reading.
Sounds like you need some high CRI lighting, minimum 90 CRI preferably 95 CRI. Your state does not, unfortunately, have the same Title 24 law the California does that mandates a minimum of 90 CRI for all LED replacement lamps. This law was put in place because of how poorly 80 CRI CFLs did. They distorted colors and gained a bad reputation. Title 24 was put in place to make peoples’ experiences with LED more positive by pushing industry towards high quality light.
I would like to but they are only from sellers that ask high shipping costs to the EU. I wait until I have a nice list with other leds too before I order them.
I’m pretty sure the E21A at 2000K R9 is at around 50. the variant that Virence sells is 9050. most of the other E21a he sells is 9080 except the 2000K and 2200K
Maukka got R9 of 89 at 1000ma but got R9 of 98 at 100ma. So at lower output, R9 is higher. I haven’t tested the low output because too lazy to close the shades to test but I’m sure it will be the same. I love this emitter for late night use especially because how little blue wavelength it emits.
Thus far I have been too cheap to purchase CT&A. I can take a DUV with another program. By the way the test is at 350mA across 12 emitters. These Xnova cubes are not high power LEDs. They spec even less than the optisolis for drive current. Far from E21A output.
The 1800k Xnova is also unique as it will make the 2000k E21A look white. 1800k starts to cross into lighting that looks yellow.
1800k xnova on the left and E21A on the right