I would like to but they are only from sellers that ask high shipping costs to the EU. I wait until I have a nice list with other leds too before I order them.
I’m pretty sure the E21A at 2000K R9 is at around 50. the variant that Virence sells is 9050. most of the other E21a he sells is 9080 except the 2000K and 2200K
Maukka got R9 of 89 at 1000ma but got R9 of 98 at 100ma. So at lower output, R9 is higher. I haven’t tested the low output because too lazy to close the shades to test but I’m sure it will be the same. I love this emitter for late night use especially because how little blue wavelength it emits.
Thus far I have been too cheap to purchase CT&A. I can take a DUV with another program. By the way the test is at 350mA across 12 emitters. These Xnova cubes are not high power LEDs. They spec even less than the optisolis for drive current. Far from E21A output.
The 1800k Xnova is also unique as it will make the 2000k E21A look white. 1800k starts to cross into lighting that looks yellow.
1800k xnova on the left and E21A on the right
Keep in mind positive duv emitters when placed next to negative duv emitters of the same color temperature will make the negative duv emitters look white. My HI CRI LED strip with very negative DUV looks like NW when placed next to my 60 CRI very positive DUV led strip. Both measured 3000k but the very negative duv led strip looks 1000k cooler.
I don’t think so. I buy all my E21A presoldered onto Virence boards. I’ve been modding a bunch of AAA lights with E21A and Optisolis using his 10mm boards. Personally I like the E21A much better than Optisolis.
Yes, the flame’s output is so natural looking. Unfortunately it’s not as easy to EDC a flamin’ torch (I mean, that long piece of wood sticking out of the pocket might be misinterpreted). Um, how much runtime can one get on a Zippo?
That has been my observations when comparing the 1800K Cube to my 2000K E21A. The E21A looks positively like a regular incandescent lamp in comparison. I also have an SST-10 deep red, and my chromatic adaptation kicks into overdrive and even 2700K looks like midday “daylight”.
Could we get the tint closer to the BBL while keeping CCT low though? I see a surplus of light at 620nm, but that’s near red light. Maybe a minus red filter? I was thinking the usual Lee Minus Green. I’m guessing for the mix you used the 2200K/1800K Cubes?
According to the datasheet the Cube has a massive chromaticity shift when warmed up, the 1800K version starts like in the chart above but at 85 degC (operating temperature in light fixtures) it drops down right on top of the BBL.
So we need bad heatsinking, something for a P60 drop-in?
I did forget about this phenomenon, I do remember reading this in the datasheet. I did take these when the emitters were cool. Actually thinking about this, I can try again when they get warmer but the setup I am using is designed to make sure they do not get 85°C or even that warm to the touch.