TK's Emisar D18 review -- 3x18650 photon grenade

All the testing seems to indicate the SST-20 in the D18 is more inline with the FD2 than FB4 tint. You should email Hank directly.

Aux board successfully tested
Prototype had an error so the LVP chip does not work without rewiring

Looks a lot different above the TIRs. Pretty cool

Sweet!

:sunglasses: :+1:

Its seems that there is a little mistake on this protrotype with the AUX LEDs colors order on the external ring. It looks better like on the inner ring when yellow is placed between green and red. Pretty sure you already noticed it but worth mentionning to be sure.

its warm white not yellow, camera does not show it right

I just took a tint measurement at turbo and got this:
CCT: 4137K
DUV: –0.0024
CRI (Ra): 73.1
R9: –18.5
Rf: 70
Rg: 97
Ra: 73.1

5D is still one of my favorite tint. Looks very perfect neutral white at night time with no hint of yellow when my eyes are adjusted to the 2700K-3000K house lights.

What did you end up getting for measuring tint/CRI?

Sekonic C-800

Does anyone know what the sustainable output is on this light?

Starting @ 14k lumens for the 5000k, what will it drop to but hold? 5k lumens?

~2,000 probably based on the charts in the OP

Photos don’t attach for some reason.

Imgur
Got a aux LED board from Lexel and got it to work after 6 hours of struggling.

You don’t want to let anyone know what you learned?

Here you go.


.

I was tired last night and just wanted to share my results.

The + goes to I+ on the driver, the - goes to G. I tried to bridge R4 but I believe it may be possible to solder the + directly to the furthest pad of R4 (from I+) and have it work.

The steps for replicating my mod are:

Buy driver from Lexel

1. Disassemble the front of head- remove optics, desolder the big red/black wires connected to the mpcb that poke through the middle hole from the driver

2. Remove reverse polarity protection ring by prying and then unscrew the driver.

3. Solder wires to the lighted board/your aux led. Solder those wires through the hole in the mpcb shelf and to the board in the aforementioned positions. Leave a couple inches of wire. (Too much and you’ll have to cram the wires in later, too little and they’ll be too short)

Test everything!

4. Pull the two original thick cables through the mpcb hole. I did this buy soldering a thin wire to the tips of both thick wires to help me pull them through. I can draw a diagram if someone wants it (send me a pm).

Test everything!

5. Reassemble everything.

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I want to update Anduril on my D18. This red ring that covers the screws is glued or what?

Yeah, it’s glued. I pried mine off with the back end of a nail so I could remove the retaining screws and the driver.

It’s also pretty inconvenient to take out the optics and unsolder the MCPCB wires before reflashing, so I almost never do it. I hope if there’s ever an updated version, it’ll have convenient reflashing access.

My buddy says he is going to gift me his D18, the one I swapped in LH351D’s, so I will have the entire Intl-Outdoor collection. He says it can sit over here gathering dust as easily as at his place. Lol

Who knows, I might actually put it to use!