What did you mod today?

Good idea with the before & after comparison GIFs :+1:

Thanks CRX! :+1:
I noticed I had different WB calibration so thereā€™s a difference in the overall colour of the photos and it is not related to the LED.

I guess it can be seen the slightly tighter hotspot and the larger corona, right?
The LED is centered (I see the ā€œflowerā€ shapped hole in a close beam) but I donā€™t know if it could be improved or not. It is hard to put it in place.
I had to use white electrical tape around the SMO reflector as well so that it didnā€™t move while screwing in the pillā€¦ :weary:

Thatā€™s some serious skill. You make it look easy. :slight_smile:

Thanks, TK! That means a lot

I put a Luxeon V 4000K on a Manker 28mm MCPCB in a MATEMINCO MT35 Mini.

I had to use a small strip of kapton tape on the central pad of the emitter to isolate it from the positive side.

Interesting solution, so the strip of tape is in fact soldered in now?
Long time no see khas btw :slight_smile:

It looks something like this :

I donā€™t know about the longevity, itā€™s not perfect if the little piece of tape ever fails it will create a short circuit hopefully ā€œjustā€ melting the springs.

I have run it on turbo until it was to hot to hold, but only time will tell. I tried to find a 28mm 4040 MCPCB, but I could only find a 20mm or a 32mm. I will try this for awhile and if it fails maybe I will try to file the 32mm to make it fit.

I havenā€™t posted anything here for a long time.
Gray C8. Dual 2nd Blue spring on the tail. TA fet+6+1 with 20awg wire. 3x lh351d 4000k & 3x lh351d 5000k, both cri90. Ledil Anna-40-6-M. Mcpcb and alu spacer from l4p.
I measured almost 10A on the tail with vtc5a. Probably it would be more if I had a clamp meter.
I would like to be able to do more measurementsā€¦


Very nice! A wall of hi cri.

Nice build! The LH351D look good with the narrow smooth optic too if you ever want more reach.

New switch and boot for the MT22A so it can tailstand.

Also turned down the edge of the release button a tad so itā€™s much less prone to opening accidentally.

Next - a better driver (of course)

First pic is the original Switch rubber boot from the ZY-T08. On the second pic you see the original 1288 switch that i would like to change to the one on the pic. To make space for it i dremel milled the ring where the retaining ring is screwed in down from 5 to 2mm. After that i noticed that the Convoy S2+ metal switch boot could fit. So i grinded a 1,5mm metall ring to fit the Metal switch boot to the tailcap. And to make it look a bit better i added a o-ring. One is a simple black o-ring the other a blue GITD o-ring. The metal switch boot sits 100% flush with the tailcap end. So tailstand is possible and it feels soooo nice compared to the original 1288 with rubber boot. Now i have to get the new pill and the 3V XHP-50.
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Put a small trit in the clip of my s mini ti.

I have a couple m43s laying around. Reflowed one from 219c to 219b. Amazing rose flood.

I replaced the XP-L Hi star in my Klarus Mi7 with a SST-20 (4000K) from Simon/Convoy (had to reduce the diameter of the star a bit).

Ultra-basic beginner mod but itā€™s where Iā€™m at :slight_smile:

Lao Tzu: The journey of a thousand miles begins with one stepā€™.

Brass lighter mod I did yesterday.

https://imgur.com/a/KyQ0BhF

Wow nice build! You make the spacer?

Super nice!

I am contemplating a similar build with the M21A.

Beam shots??