It may be a joke to you, mister, but I take my life very seriously.
Hrrrmph. Humans these days.
I didn’t even know Sofirn made lasers. 
Thank you TK for the wonderful box of goodies that showed up on my door step today! Basically all brand new torches, worth every penny and then some!
The Waiting…
… Maybe if I order another box the first one will get here sooner…
I thought the Pony Express was pulling up this morning, but it was just a deer in the back yard.
rofl…. 
Just thinking of buying another must have worked. Overnight my tracking went from Friday by 8pm to Wednesday (today) by 8pm.
Now to get batteries…
Oh, I see. And you just beam down in the transporter to mail those boxes! :sunglasses: Easy peasy.
My box landed. I’m impressed with most of them, but those god awful coronas and blue spill ruins one or two of them. I’m wondering about the C8f though. The tailcap had a spring bypass. Is that stock? Are you sure none of these has the “ tk touch “ on them?
The ‘spring bypasses’ are stock on the C8F & technically TK did “touch” them… I would have to assume.
But she did say none of them had “The TK Touch”.
Yeah, that’s an issue with pretty much any XP-G3 / XP-L2 light, and I’ve already sent a few messages about the issue. It’s the reason why BLF lights are still using older emitters, or switching to other LED brands.
Oddly enough, that’s stock. It was designed that way because of feedback from this forum. 
They do listen to us sometimes. On another note, I like the fact all the lights respond well to flat top batteries. I put my battery pack pulls in all of them and had no problems.
amishbill found an issue on the SP31 V2.0 lights, the tactical-style model which is almost identical to a Fenix. We’ve only tested two, but they both had the same issue — the tail switch sometimes gets stuck and doesn’t want to turn off. It clicks normally, but whatever part makes the electrical contact inside, it can get stuck until it’s clicked again a couple more times or until the light gets knocked against something. Sometimes it’ll even just fall into place on its own, after a short delay.
On the one I tested, sometimes it’ll work fine 50 times in a row, and sometimes it’ll fail twice in a row. Overall though, it seems to get stick about 1 out of every 25 times I turn the light off.
I’m guessing that it might help to put a bit of lube inside, since that’s a common thing for some types of switches. Not sure though.
how much would 8 x 3000mah batteries be? They seem to be good performing unprotected button tops
I would like to add, I got the batteries from you with 4.07v on it. I took my allergy medicine to knock me out since I don’t sleep at night. I went to bed at midnight and woke up for work at 3:45 am. I realized before I went to bed I had the light on low. I woke up to the light still activated on my night stand. expecting to find a destroyed battery, it still tested at 4.07v
Lights arrived today!
I already accidentally strobed my SP36 on full power in my office.
That was not smart, lol!
Did it cause a panic among your co-workers?? 
By the way… I love your avatar. 
9K
Hmm… not sure, but I only have those in married sets of 3, installed in SP36 lights. It would probably be a good idea to keep them in those sets, with the lights.
That’s one way to get some attention.
It’s also one of the things I was hoping Tom would change. I like it better when double click goes to/from turbo, instead of going to turbo and then to strobe. But he was too busy to change it at the time, and has a different vision for how the UI should work.
> he … has a different vision
I hope he recovers from the dazzle
If only the 36 could be taken apart and reflashed without a bandsaw & chisel. :-/
Yeah… the SP36 is nice, but it’s rather a pain to open up for any modifications. I haven’t actually managed to open one except for the dev sample which showed up with no glue. I’ve damaged one while trying though.
Do you have anything left. Not that i need any more, but I did give some out for an emergency and haven’t seen them back yet