FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

I think he’s saying that a 3000K tint beamshot, using a 5000K color-balance on the camera, isn’t a fair representation of what your eyes see.

When I use the 7A FW3A in a dark room, it looks white. Perhaps a little warmish, but certainly not orange like it does in the photo.

If I use it in the daytime, sure, it looks orange. But that’s because my eyes are expecting somewhere around a 6000K color. But again, it doesn’t look that way at night when it’s the only light source. Our eyes adapt. Photos don’t.

Yep…. :+1: … :wink:

I believe this is a Stainless Steel/Copper version ...

The following lineup looks logical to me:

FW3A = Aluminium (f.e with XP-L HI 1A)

FW3B = Brass (f.e with XP-L HI 3D)

FW3C = Copper (f.e with XP-L HI 7A)

FW3S = Stainless Steel/Copper (f.e with SST-20)

FW3T = Titanium/Copper (f.e with Nichia 219C)

So we could have a different emitter choice for every model ;-)

:BEER:

- SAM -

If they make the purple I'm buying it and selling the one I've got.

Interested.

Is their a coupon code for the copper? I tried the code I got for the first batch but that did not work.

It's clearly mentioned in the OP and should be $59,50 afterwards ;-)

:BEER:

- SAM -

That’s is the code I tried, says code is invalid. The

You tried BLFFW3C??

Beats me then….

Try MDFW3C (public code from M4D M4X) ;-)

Edit: also try NDFW3C (so there could be 3 codes ND... MD... BLF...) and please tell us if it worked out for you

:BEER:

- SAM -

Has anyone done some rough runtime tests for lowest moonlight mode?

What are people thinking it would get? Days, weeks, Zebralight runtimes?

EDIT: I also wanted to add that I posted a while back because I received one with a mis-soldered head spring.
Kudos to Neal and co. for taking care of me. I received a new head that works great!

I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).

@ Lund1660……
I don’t know why BLFFW3C won’t work for you, it works fine for me. Drops the price to $59.50.

Same here, I got one because it was cheaper & I am planning on changing emitters. I hope I am surprised & will like it, but the things you mentioned make that very unlikely in this light.

Color rendition between a Medium CRI HP-L HI & a Higher CRI SST-20 just does not mean that much to me.
To many trade offs for little or no gain ’to me’.
ymmv

Toykeeper said “The lowest level is about 0.3 lm and can run for about 3 months.”
Good to hear that Neal got your problem sorted. :+1:

No.

Results between the emitters should be the same as for the Emisar D4.

Basically, only SST-20 70 CRI 5000K throws farther.

SST-20 95 CRI 4000K, like that used in the FW3A, is dimmer. Expect the same throw as XPL HI. The light should be high CRI with beautiful R9 (reds really pop), but produces noticeably less light and more heat.

Thanks everyone, worked for me now and ordered, not sure what I did wrong.

Okay, I deleted the post. Why were so many wanting the SST-20? There had to be a reason.

A CRI of 70 is 6 times as much color error as CRI of 95, and the 3D option is reportedly greener than expected. These are also a less green tint bin of SST-20 than most of us have used before. I don’t think you’re giving up much with SST-20 vs. XP-L HI - just a little efficiency in exchange for a huge increase in color vividness and accuracy.

I think I’m waiting for the FW3T and other colors before I buy more though.

Ordered an SST-20 to go with my 3D. Thanks again to all involved!!