FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

You tried BLFFW3C??

Beats me then….

Try MDFW3C (public code from M4D M4X) ;-)

Edit: also try NDFW3C (so there could be 3 codes ND... MD... BLF...) and please tell us if it worked out for you

:BEER:

- SAM -

Has anyone done some rough runtime tests for lowest moonlight mode?

What are people thinking it would get? Days, weeks, Zebralight runtimes?

EDIT: I also wanted to add that I posted a while back because I received one with a mis-soldered head spring.
Kudos to Neal and co. for taking care of me. I received a new head that works great!

I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).

@ Lund1660……
I don’t know why BLFFW3C won’t work for you, it works fine for me. Drops the price to $59.50.

Same here, I got one because it was cheaper & I am planning on changing emitters. I hope I am surprised & will like it, but the things you mentioned make that very unlikely in this light.

Color rendition between a Medium CRI HP-L HI & a Higher CRI SST-20 just does not mean that much to me.
To many trade offs for little or no gain ’to me’.
ymmv

Toykeeper said “The lowest level is about 0.3 lm and can run for about 3 months.”
Good to hear that Neal got your problem sorted. :+1:

No.

Results between the emitters should be the same as for the Emisar D4.

Basically, only SST-20 70 CRI 5000K throws farther.

SST-20 95 CRI 4000K, like that used in the FW3A, is dimmer. Expect the same throw as XPL HI. The light should be high CRI with beautiful R9 (reds really pop), but produces noticeably less light and more heat.

Thanks everyone, worked for me now and ordered, not sure what I did wrong.

Okay, I deleted the post. Why were so many wanting the SST-20? There had to be a reason.

A CRI of 70 is 6 times as much color error as CRI of 95, and the 3D option is reportedly greener than expected. These are also a less green tint bin of SST-20 than most of us have used before. I don’t think you’re giving up much with SST-20 vs. XP-L HI - just a little efficiency in exchange for a huge increase in color vividness and accuracy.

I think I’m waiting for the FW3T and other colors before I buy more though.

Ordered an SST-20 to go with my 3D. Thanks again to all involved!!

Are you able to set the L - M - High with anduril? I’m curious if I can set the exact output so I know Im exactly around 400-500 lumens

You can configure a stepped ramp with three levels, and set the floor/ceiling wherever you like.

Well…. okay, but by that logic a CRI of 95 has an infinite amount of color error compared to an incandescent light (CRI 100).

But in real-world use…?

I like high CRI too. But, it doesn’t seem like a huge improvement over a typical Cree neutral white. Definitely a big improvement over crappy cool white, though.

Worth it for some lights. Get both!

SST-20 ordered. Old code works fine. The wait continues.

I wish the FW3C was available with the Luminus SST20 4000K emitter option.

It’s available with the SST-20 4000K right now. The SST-20 is made by Luminus.

Did you mean to say the Samsung LH351D 4000K?

Ah, wasn’t familiar with the Ubisoft logo.

Looking it up now, it appears to be deprecated in favor of a new version which looks more different.

They’re FA3 in theory, but haven’t been tested yet. I hope they’ll be at least as good as the FA3 emitters maukka tested. It remains to be seen though.

Also not sure if the 219C model will be the same bin in the next batch, but I hope so. It sounds like the first batch was really good and I’m bummed that I didn’t get one.

Or maybe she’d be spoiled and would find that no other lights are up to par. Instead of starting an addiction, maybe it could end one? :slight_smile:

Not sure, but I’ve asked about it several times. I’d especially like a polished bare aluminum version.

Some of us, anyway. When I use 7A in a dark room, it still looks quite yellow because it’s outside the range of what my eyes can adapt to. Looks nice in candle mode though.

Yeah… the same thing comes to mind every time someone (usually Zak) makes that point. A 95 CRI light has five times as much color error as a 99 CRI light… but it’d be difficult to find anyone who can actually tell the difference. The way it’s phrased makes a big deal out of something people might not even notice, like whether a bowl of soup has one grain or five grains of salt in it.

The difference between 95 CRI and 70 CRI is more noticeable in real life, but it’s still a relatively small difference. I find that it’s a smaller effect than the difference between +0.003 duv (greenish) and –0.003 duv (pinkish). So I’ll happily take a 70 CRI –0.003 duv emitter over a 95 CRI +0.003 duv emitter.

And that’s still a smaller effect than a change of color temperature, like going from 4400K to 5500K or 3300K. The effect there is huge. Personally, I find that a high-CRI 2700K light (like an incandescent bulb) is almost as bad as a negative-CRI 2700K light (like a sodium vapor lamp). When the CCT is so warm, it hardly even seems to matter what the CRI is… because CRI only matters for white light. Too warm or too cold isn’t even white any more.

The expected runtime on moon is about 3 months. It’s roughly the same as what Zebralight gets at the same lumen level.

Comparing the X-PL HI 3D and SST-20 4000K in my FW3A:

-Clearly higher candela per lumen/throwier with the SST-20 but not a “spotty” beam compared to most single emitter lights
-The loss in absolute max output may be “noticeable” but not as much as I would have though and since the light steps down so quickly its almost a non-issue IMO
-Maybe a bit more heat production? Certainly not enough for me to really be sure of
-Drastically better colors at every output level. IDK where the stock X-PL HI bin came from but they are the WORST example of this emitter I’ve seen yet. IIRC testing of the duv on the stock emitters shows they’re nearly as green as the decent bins of SST-20 anyway

Absolutely zero regrets doing the swap on mine and would highly suggest the SST-20 4000K to anyone looking to get a first or second… or tenth FW3A. They’re just warm enough where I think most people will be happy with the temp unless you really love 5500K+

These emitters are not in any way analogous to the 219C vs X-PL HI on the D4 IMO. If I was to make a guess the throwiness of the SST-20 really does a good job of hiding the minor output loss whereas 219C are noticeably floodier than X-PL HI.