I really don’t think most people who know, forget TLF is equally in on this too. So yeah, as you stated; that would make “TWO comunities ACTIVE for this flashlight”.
But when someone posts pictures (now deleted) with no caption or informarion besides…. “tint choices :heart_eyes: ” …. It is kinda natural to want to know where they came from. Especially since these light are not on the market yet.
So…. I’ll just now figure they came from TLF.
As far as the “one was communication” you mention… I have no idea?? But now that I really think about what you said, it does seem BLF gets quite a bit of 2nd & 3rd hand info.
But… at least we get it. So it’s all good…. … :+1:
TK’s SST-20 pictures aren’t that far off from what I experience when I turn on my SST-20 95-CRI lights on lower power settings. They look VERY green.
Installing a Lee minus green filter helps a lot… but the Lee #279 filter I’m using itself has major disadvantages (14% reduction in output, color temp gets noticeably warmer. Not a Zircon filter so excessive output will damage it.).
At lower power settings the green of the SST-20 is instantly noticeable. Indoors and outdoors. And even if you don’t have a less-green light on-hand to compare it to.
It looks great if I turn it up high enough to activate the FET… in other words, 1000+ lumens. It makes an awesome 4000K white light. At the lower levels I actually use though, it’s not even close to white.
You mean the green one?
The color samples show olive green, blue, pinkish purple, and white.
It looks like it may be somewhere between “olive” and “olive drab”, somewhere between the food and the military color.
About the purple one, I’d ideally make it a bit darker… sort of a candy grape purple or midnight purple. But this pinkish purple is good too.
I hope so too!
I like purple, and I want a moonbeam button.
I hope the logo is okay. I think people were expecting me to put my avatar or “TK” or the button, but that just seems tacky. I’d rather have some sort of simple geometric design, so I made one. “Press here for moonbeams”
It’s more that Bluzie at TLF is actively engaged in the ongoing FW3A process, and … I’m trying not to be. Now that it’s released, I mostly need to focus on other projects. And maybe a nap.
I completely agree, and I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not overly keen on the type of purple like the one pictured. We’ve already seen lights in thst shade of purple that looks almost like fuchsia (e.g. Astrolux A01 with its horrible next-mode memory). Personally, I prefer the darker tones with a higher blue component such as Cadbury’s Purple. Or if we stay with warmer tones, maybe a dark plum / wine red. There are so many shades of purple, so why stick with what is so common? That particular shade seems over-used to me - not just in flashlights but also in other products, which imho makes it look ‘cheap’. Let’s be a bit more adventurous!
If I understand correctly, white ano is made the same way as silver ano, or virtually any other color except “natural” — by adding dye. Natural ano is without dye, silver can technically be done without except it’s extremely thin, and the common type-II colors (including silver) just use different colors of dye.
With type-III ano, the natural color is strong enough to make lighter dye colors look bad… so those are usually natural or black or dark grey.
Anyway, it does seem to be white… or at least a pretty light grey. We should find out more soon.
From what I remember, the white dye particles were too large to fit inside the etched surface you get with aluminum which is why we never see white anodization. Anyway, maybe they figured out a way to do it.
I think on the Emisar products they might acid etch the surface, add the white dye then seal it. I’m not sure. The grainy surface is a key that they are doing something unique. It may not be true anodization like we see with other colors, though. Here’s an article on why there’s no white.
I wonder if we can get Lumintop to comment on the white finish.
… :+1:
