Nice build! The LH351D look good with the narrow smooth optic too if you ever want more reach.
New switch and boot for the MT22A so it can tailstand.
Also turned down the edge of the release button a tad so it’s much less prone to opening accidentally.
Next - a better driver (of course)
First pic is the original Switch rubber boot from the ZY-T08. On the second pic you see the original 1288 switch that i would like to change to the one on the pic. To make space for it i dremel milled the ring where the retaining ring is screwed in down from 5 to 2mm. After that i noticed that the Convoy S2+ metal switch boot could fit. So i grinded a 1,5mm metall ring to fit the Metal switch boot to the tailcap. And to make it look a bit better i added a o-ring. One is a simple black o-ring the other a blue GITD o-ring. The metal switch boot sits 100% flush with the tailcap end. So tailstand is possible and it feels soooo nice compared to the original 1288 with rubber boot. Now i have to get the new pill and the 3V XHP-50.
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Put a small trit in the clip of my s mini ti.
I have a couple m43s laying around. Reflowed one from 219c to 219b. Amazing rose flood.
I replaced the XP-L Hi star in my Klarus Mi7 with a SST-20 (4000K) from Simon/Convoy (had to reduce the diameter of the star a bit).
Ultra-basic beginner mod but it’s where I’m at 
Lao Tzu: The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step’.
Brass lighter mod I did yesterday.
Wow nice build! You make the spacer?
Super nice!
I am contemplating a similar build with the M21A.
Beam shots??
Stunning!
You give me idea for my unused zippo :+1:
Is that a switch (the cylinder shaped stuff)?
I’m thinking about using reed (magnetic) switch for my future build.
Yes .
Yes, but only for myself, it’s just a hobby …
I’m not going to make money on it.
Yes it has three switches, you can see it working in the linked thread :+1:
I used a Sanrenmu knife clip and put it in one of my Convoy S2+ 
Switch PCB is modded back to 2P battery. In the past i removed the copper layer on 60% of the switch side. So i had to fix it. Used a 0,1mm copper sheet, soldert 2 layers together and glued it on the pcb with thermal glue. Then i were able to install the new switch and the new metal button. Needed a spacer to make it work nicely. But i did not have the right material on hand. So i had to make one brass spacer 2mm and one copper 0,5mm. Soldert both together and made it fit to the aluminium Tailcap. Now i am waiting for some GITD powder to fill the space arround the metal switch button. And the new pill from Kirill that seems to be stuck in customs. But untill then i will remove the red marked area on the pics to make the tube more flat on both sides.
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Put some magnets on the Sofirn C01’s I have. Bought here (Convoy Store):
Used a drop of super glue to fix the magnets in the lights!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/D5-3-magnet-for-18650-flat-head-battery/1590874652.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dkz3qek
Rebel Lime in a Convoy C8+ on a LD25 3A driver. I wanted to use one of my old D80. But the 17mm driver was not a good fit. Even with almost empty battery the rebel lime is pulling the full 3A. It is still not 100% centered. But it is looking fine as it is now.
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So… what is Rebel Lime good for? I mean, is it an aesthetic choice, or is there a practical purpose?
To put out a lot of lime colored light :sunglasses: Kidding! I really have no special use for it. But i find it more interesting to work with a led i never used.
And i like the green/lime colored leds. So i had to get at least one Rebel Lime. To bad that the MCPCB is a Aluminium board and not a Copper DTP
Waiting for new boards from Neven to complete a few more color light mods.