I owned both, but recently sold my GT Mini.
I much prefer the switch of the D1S. It’s larger and feels nicer.
The D1S has a (slightly) tighter hotspot, too.
I can’t comment on the firmware differences. I put Andúril on both of them as soon as they arrived. 
Actually I mean on how to change the LED to get more throw. But thanks anyway for the big effort and time!
Oh! Well if you get the White Flat on 20mm (here’s an example), then you just open the top of the light, drop out the reflector, desolder the old one (positive and negative wires), and solder the new one in. You’ll need thermal paste too for between the MCPCB and the light itself.
I don’t have any pictures of all opened up right now, but can probably take some in about 5 hours or so. I still need to order my white flat though 
EDIT:: Although the led4power link doesn’t look like it has gaskets. intl-outdoor and mtnelectronics do though. Because it’s a 3030 emitter, getting a gasket is a bit harder…
Thanks, it should be very straight forward. I just didn’t find gaskets at into-outdoor website.
It’s a little tickbox on there
Thank you!
I have a flat white in my clear ano convoy c8 and throw is amazing. So if you want to go cheap, thats also a possibility.
I already have a GT mini, so it’s easier.
Yeah but you cant run the flat white on to high amps. I think 4.5 amp max so you would have to swap driver.
GT Mini FET caps out at 4.5A from memory…
Edit:: I may be wrong… reading into it again.
Edit 2:
Ow oke. So it is limited by the current that can travel through the springs?
Sounds like it - the tailcap is double spring where the driver side is a single (albeit shallow) spring. By bypassing it or doing a double-spring mod you should get more light, but it’ll just heat up faster, and not be super noticeable anyway.
Looking at TA’s XPL HI review, it seems that going from 4.5A to 5.5A is only ~ 160 extra lumens, or ~11% more (that’s on a CW emitter) - only slightly noticeable. But going from 4.5 to 5.5A on a flat white, it looks like you actually lose about 40 lumens , or around 4.5%.
Either way, if I can hit 4.5A consistent with a flat white, I’m happy and with Anduril, I’ll be far happier than with any of the UIs I’ve found on Convoys so far.
Yeah anduril is way nicer. I put a single mode driver in it with 9x7135 and both springs bypassed. With full battery it gets hot after 5 min.
GT Mini wiring and driver can DEFINITELY supply more than 4.5A.
Without a clamp meter you’re not getting the full reading of the current and some emitters like XPL HI will pull less current than others anyway.
Interesting - will have to look into it. Might even be a way to modify Anduril to PWM it down. Will research further before putting the emitter in.
I want to buy the flat white and a GT Mini, but I am guessing a driver switch would be needed also for this mod because it is going to push more than 4-4.5 Amps. Is this correct?
If I did get the new C8 the tan version, what is that driver pushing in amps? Can I just buy a flat white and install it like I would the GT mini, just do an emitter swap for the flat white, and if so is it going to use the 20mm also?
This is my first mod on a factory light without building it from the ground up and only did that a couple times.
The mcpcb of the tan c8+ is 20mm. the c8(the previous model) has almost the same specs. Like same driver and mcpcb size, but the difference is that the reflector opening of the c8+ is 7mm and the c8 9mm. Int outdoor only sells the 7mm gasket. If you get a c8+ you can just swap emiters. It will be around 3.5 amp, but it is plenty bright and already gets hot pretty fast with a full 18650. You can also buy a led4power driver which can be set to 4.5 amp.
Yeah my desert tan C8+ white flat combo is amazing. Tail clicky always ready to fire from the pocket!
You can ask Simon to send a SMO reflector with 7mm bottom hole from his AliExpress store.