What did you mod today?

With the rebel does the star have to be a little off center to properly center the dome of the LED?

Reminds me of my Quarks and Jetbeams… :smiling_imp:

Tint is almost as bad as some white CREEs

“almost” :innocent:

Rebel Lime... For a second I thought it was a joke for how the oldgood XPG2s look with a wavien collar and FET.

It's, uh, a color of LED I've only witnessed within the bands of the Cree Fried Egg.

djozz
Thanks! But i have one Rebel Lime and one Rebel Alu Sinkpad left here.
I never thought that it would be such a pain to center this led. Even when the dome is right in the center you get a beamprofile that looks not centered. Only thing that helped was to tilt the reflector a tiny bit. This way you get a good looking hotspot. But still some artifacts arround the hotspot.
Next led i want to build a light with is the KP CSLNM1 F1. The Led4Power 6A driver is ordered (will turn it down to ~5A) and i can not wait to see how it looks in the D80 or the Cometa.
But i am really interested in a deep red led with high output.

Has anyone had trouble with blowing an SST-40? I’ve been messing with TIR lenses in an 18350 S2+ and it lasted about 3 seconds on the highest level. I was using a FET driver but thought I would be OK without a bypassed spring and the Efest 18350. Regardless of mode the led will only come on as if it’s in a moonlight mode.

I thought Astrolux was using a FET in one of their SST-40 lights? Maybe I just got a bad one?

There's a few possibilities. You could have damaged something in the current path, like an unbypassed spring or a switch that wasn't up to the current, in a way that increased the resistance a lot. You may have blown the SST-40, as they can only handle about 9A max... however, I don't think it's likely, as my recollection is that they burn bond wires and die completely. There could also be something wrong with the driver, but I wouldn't know what or how to troubleshoot it. With TIRs, there's no chance you shorted to the reflector, so I'm not sure what else could have happened to it. I'd also check the battery voltage and the thermal paste under the MCPCB just to be thorough.

More likely a problem with the driver or a bad reflow.

Thanks for the input. I swapped the SST-40 with an XM-L2 and all is well. I didn’t change anything else. It has me puzzled.

I would reflow the SST40 and try again. Chances are that you didn’t have a good enough thermal path and the emitter got toasty :slight_smile:

I burned a couple of SST-40’s a while back when I upgraded to dual BlueSwordM BeCu Gen 2 springs in the tail of a Sofirn Q8 and used 30Q’s to power them through the stock FET driver. One burned out really badly and filled the reflector/lens with smoke. The other just burned a little and had permanently reduced output after. Ironically, I was trying to calibrate the Thermal Protection in Narsil, so the light was in full blast Turbo mode, waiting for me to save it from the blistering heat with a simple button push that didn’t come in time. :smiling_imp:

Can you guys recommend me a razor (or other) blade for de-doming? The crappy ones i’m using need an overhaul and I have a lot of LH351D 5000K 90CRI left :slight_smile:

No Wilkinson specials around? Thin, flexible, just put a shim around the LED and slice it across like you’re in a deli slicing boloney.

These? Amazon.com

Yeh, nice and bendy.

In case it helps:

:+1:

Ha! And a Wilkinson blade, too. :laughing:

A microtome.

I finally threw my CULNM1 (Boost HL, I think) in my Z1 after I burned the 1mm2 white flat I put in the first time. It's a glorious pencil-beam.

I did have to ream out a 3535 centering ring I had that fit the Z1, and unfortunately it is a white centering ring. So, there's a funny-looking pale donut around the blindingly white square I've painted on my wall. I can't wait to get it outdoors but it's too late now.