Does the sst20 throw more than xpl hi? Surprised the xpl hi only 100 lumens more.
The aux LEDs turn on during “off” and “lockout” modes. They are off in other modes, like when the main LEDs are on.
Yes.
perfect! & Thanks for the nice picture 
Hello
Please help me choose led and tint?
So many options that I can’t decide what to choose. 
What did you choose and why?
Will there be green color of this FL, the same color as original D4?
Thank you
Kind regards
I’m a tint snob now, so I went for XP-L HI. 5D 4000K to be specific. Beautiful rosy beam with no tint shifting and no green in it. 70 CRI is plenty for my tastes. 3A 5000K is also a great option for a very pure white beam.
If you prefer high CRI, get the SST-20 4000K (or 3000K if you want a warm, candle-like light). Beware that the 4000K is notorious for being a quite green at low to medium output levels, if that sort of stuff bothers you at all. I haven’t had much luck with 219Cs from Emisar either, with all of them being somewhat green too, but YMMV.
If you want maximum power and throw for cheaper than XP-L HI, get the SST-20 5000K, or 6500K if you want a bluer tint rather than a whiter one. As with most SST-20s, these might look a little green at low and medium output levels, but they’re cheaper than XP-L HI so it’s a perfectly acceptable tradeoff. Keep in mind that these are low CRI however.
I think the general consensus these days is SST-20 4000K for high CRI, and SST-20 5000K for maximum performance.
Thank you for your kind answer.
You’re welcome. My favourite part about the flashlight community is how helpful everybody is. I try to give back what I can.
VTC6 tends to do a bit better in peak output IIRC, but they're definitely not "the same cell" - they're made by different manufacturers. You may as well lump in the LG high-current cell that's 3000mAh, the HG2 if I'm not mistaken. There's also lower-capacity cells that can do higher peak outputs. But I wouldn't recommend any higher capacity 3500mAh cells for this light, or any other low-discharge cells. They will not hold up well to higher current draw of this light. Actually, I'd consider it mildly irresponsible to recommend such batteries for a D4.
Is there a BLF discount code?
I dont know if I got lucky, or Hank got some nice binned SST20s but my 4k D4 is almost perfectly neutral. Ill know more once my 3k V1 comes in. I cant deny the tint of 4k XP-L HIs though as I have 3 D4S with them and my 7a FW3A.
Sadly though I kinda like the idea of my nightstand “candle” having amber or red aux lights so the diffuser would slightly glow.
I also need to wait and see what the candle mode looks like on the V2 because im not incredibly fond of the 6/2 build’s behavior.
My 2 cents: i first bought a D4S sst20 6500k and it did have a noticeable green tint on lower output. Being in love I ordered another D4S Nichia 219C and a D4 sst20 4000K both with uncoated lenses and there’s zero green in the tint. Also I swapped the uncoated lens from my 2nd D4S with the first one (sst20 6500K) and the green is hardly noticeable anymore.
So for absolute power get the sst20 5000/6500K and for cosy warmer light get the Nichia or sst20 3000/4000K. Personally I really adore the sst20 4000K, it was my first none cool white led and it made me go WAAAW out loud:) beautiful colour rendering and easier on the eyes on full power. The Nichia is quite cosy as well, somewhat rosy on lower output. The power difference is really noticeable between the warm and cool white.
Yes, all SST-20 have higher candela per lumen than XPL-HI.
Only the 70 CRI versions of it (5000 and 6500K) have 4000+ lm output, the 90CRI 3000 and 4000K hit ~3000.
Would love to see a beam shot comparison between all leds and tint options in the same picture against a white wall at about 10 meters and label which tint is each one, that would solve a lot of questions regarding tint and leds.
Thanks!
guessing these will be available thru Mountain in time?
grateful for TK’s review.
If I recall correctly doesn’t latest Anduril have momentary strobes, etc? This will be very FUN light to play with!
The video tutorial for all the modes, tweaks and adjustments in this light’s UI would be a Godsend. It would probably be a 45min, 2-part pay-per-view lol. Totally worth it, too!
-Pretty much a muggle with an I Q, uncommon sense and tools. Techno-tarded, mostly, though.
We have Anduril and of course candle mode now.
A diffuser should be made for this. Best would be short as lumintop, not as long as a convoy.
What would you like to change about it?
Yes, it has momentary strobes. I’m tempted to see if I can reflash the firmware on my camera to enable longer exposures, so I can try some light painting.
TK, for light painting it seems like you could also take more than one exposure and combine them in Photoshop.
I need more time to compare their behavior. I have a few lights with varying iterations of candle mode.
~November 2018 build on a D4S and Q8 - Baseline + looks “smooth”
1st gen D4 (V2 Driver/no fancy lockout) - higher max brightness + distinguishable waveforms of at least 2 triangle waves.
6/2 on FW3A - higher max brightness + distinguishable waveforms of at least 2 triangle waves + seemingly more erratic 3rd wave?
I cant quite tell much difference between the Nov 2018 and D4v1(V2 driver) aside from maybe a minor increase in max allowable brightness fluctuations and the occasional noticeably stepped brightness increases.
Something about the 6/2 build just makes it seem like the “flame” is substantially more active and flickery, and that compounded with the higher allowable brightness isnt relaxing to me. I may have to reflash the older FW3A build just to confirm its the build and not the light, but I distinctly remember it looking different after the flash.
Obviously thats just my opinion though and something minor in the grand scheme of things. Perhaps its all in my head.